Pattern Making- The Late Bustle Era Bodice

You now should have tracings of the 4(or 5) basic pieces and they should look something like one of these, depending on your style and body shape. Basic Bodice Cuirass(1876-81) Small Bust Larger Bust All that remains is to add the seam allowances. For this pattern for the muslin fitting bodice you will not add a facing to the front- just a seam allowance. I draw another line 1/2" outside of the pattern line, on every seam with 3 exceptions. The seam allowance on the undearm piece between the front and undearm, the seam allowance on the front piece between the front and underarm, and the center front seam allowance. This is done to allow a bit extra "adjusting" room or "ease" for the muslin. Do not add any extra at the bottom edge. Adding the seam allowances can be done in several ways. I usually use my clear quilting ruler, lining up short pieces of the pattern line with the 1/2" (3/4") line, and tracing along the outside edge. You can also use a ruler or tape measure to mark 1/2" (3/4") outside of the pattern line, by just sliding it along with your pencil. A compass can also be used to mark the 1/2" (3/4") line, this is especially nice if you have one that has 2 pencils instead of a metal point. Set it to 1/2" (3/4") apart and trace along the pattern lines. One more thought- tape two pens or pencils together with a block(or folded up cardboard) between them, that seperates them the desired seam width. NOTE: A bodice made in this manner has very little wearing ease! The bodices in this era fit very closely and you will have to learn to move a bit differently with a properly fitted bodice. If you are uncomfortable in very tight fitting bodices, you may want to add the 3/4" seam on the underarm to Front seam allowances but only take 1/2" when sewing your muslin up. This should give you 1" of wearing ease. (1/4" on each seam allowance on two front to underarm seams .25 x 4 =1") if you think you will wish more than this use a 3/4 seam allowance on the undearm/sideback seam as well on both pieces or the back underarm/front underarm seam if you have opted for the larger bust size style. Only let this seam out if absolutely necessary for movement. Your assignment for this lesson is simply to complete your basic sloper so that it will be ready to cut your muslin next week. If you are taking the class for a certificate- a photo of your muslin on you or the dress form will be required. Once you have your seamlines traced you are ready to cut your muslin - For lesson 3 have your fabric, tracing wheel/paper, scissors and sewing machine ready! It would be nice to have a friend to help check the fit after the muslin is sewn up as well! Lesson 2 - Page 10 Site Index Page 1- 2 - 3 - 4 - 5 - 6 - 7 - 8 - 9 - 10

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