Pattern Making- The Late Bustle Era Bodice

Fitting the bodice sloper to the waist measurements Note: What if my waist is less than 3" smaller than my bust measure?- Go Here for helpful hints Read all the way through this page before starting to take out waist taper. What we are doing is slimming the bodice down from the bust measure to the waist measure by taking out front darts, and taking out fabric at the back seamlines. 34.Front Bust minus Front Waist divided by 4 =Dart Width You will have two darts on each front piece. Measure Starting at Point J toward Point I and mark your outside dart width. Now allowing 1/2 - 3/4" between Point J and the second dart measure the second dart width to the inside of this. (Between the first dart and the Line CE.) Use your design curve as shown to draw in these darts with softly rounded lines. The Top level of the darts should be no higher than level with point W, and the top point will start at about the 9 - 11" mark on your design ruler. The point of the dart will be the center of the dart width- to easily find it square up from line BE at the center of each dart width. 35. Bust____ minus Waist _____ =_____ divided by 2 = ______ minus dart width ____ times 2 =___ inches to be taken out of back waistline. divide by 4____= waist taper Tapering out seamlines Using back and side seamlines at waist as a center point mark waist taper. (this means half of the waist taper width will be on each side of your already marked seamlines) Taper seam lines to waist taper-starting 1/2" below the bottom of the bust line (as indicated by top point of dart. (These lines will curve softly outward from the already drawn lines.) 36. Mark a line parallel to waist line at high hip level (3") and at hip level (Waist to hip) Lesson 2 - Page 4 Site Index Page 1- 2 - 3 - 4 - 5 - 6 - 7 - 8 - 9 - 10

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