|
Drawing the hip flare
for the small bustle or natural form
Use your normal high hip, and hip measurements for steps 37-41. I prefer to draft all of
my slopers this way as it is easier for me to extend the sloper hip curve later in the styling process to allow
for the bustle, than it is to slim it down if it is not needed/desired.
What we are doing is adding back in the fabric we took out by tapering the seams into the waist measurement. Now
we need to flare them back out. The flare may not cross exactly at the high hip as shown on my drawing. If your
high hip measure is greater than your bust measure it will cross the extended seamline before it reaches your high
hip line. If your high hip measure is smaller than your bustline it will but your hip measure is larger than your
bustline it will cross the extended seamline after the high hip level but before reaching the hip level.
37. Extend original seam lines (before you took out waist taper) down from waistline to cross
these lines. Extend front dart center down to hip, taper dart back to a point at hip line. Measure dart widths
at intersecting hip lines.
NOTE: When drafting the cuirass bodice use your hip measure over your petticoat- NOT the
measure over the bustle, as this era did not generally wear large bustles. Also when drafting the hip lines add
about 1/2" to the measure of the center back hip flare only (marked from point R to hipline.)
38. Bust ____ minus high hip _____= ______ divided by 2 = ___ minus dart widths = ___ divide
by 4 = high hip taper
39. If the Abdomen or hips are very prominent this measure may be used to get the high hip taper instead of step
38.High hip minus Abdomen = ______ divided by 2 = divide by 4 = high hip taper
40. High hip taper ____ divided by 2= ____ the amount measured out from each original seam line on high hip line.
This may be a negative number(if high hip measurement is less than bust measure), if so extend the mark to the
opposite side of the original seam line that the tapered seamline is on. Taper new seamlines from waist back out
to these markings on the high hip line.
41. Hip follow same directions as for high hip except Bust minus hip.
42. Taper bust darts back to hip using design ruler curve.
Lesson 2 - Page 5
Site Index
Page 1- 2 - 3 - 4 - 5 - 6 - 7
- 8 - 9 - 10
|
