Costume Classroom: Making a Late 18th Century Wardrobe: Ladies Caraco Jacket

Making a Late 18th Century Wardrobe: Ladies Caraco Jacket
Lesson #1: Page 7

Fitting your muslin and determining pattern corrections

Now, put on your stays, and try on your caraco. Pin your caraco closed along the center front fold line of the stomacher. Check the fit at the following points:

The neckline- does the jacket fit smoothly around the front neckline? Remember, you still have 5/8" seam allowance on the neckline. The handkerchief either comes over the neckline, or tucks into the neckline. When you tug slightly at the bottom center front of the stomacher, the neckline should fit smoothly all the way around, If not, then check the fit of

The center back - my shoulders are fairly square, perhaps more so than most, and this pattern was made to my body. Take in the center back seam at the neckline, down to below the shoulder blades. This may cure your neckline problem. If not, then check the fit of the

Shoulder seam- If the neckline is still not smooth, take up the shoulder seam. Rip out the stitches, and pin the front to the back at the shoulder seam, shortening the front piece, until the neckline is smooth and even. The line of pins will be your new front shoulder seam stitching line.

If your sleeves are too tight, odds are your neckline is off the shoulder, or way wider than it should be. This is a sleeve problem first, and then perhaps a neckline problem. If you are uncertain if this is your problem, rip out the sleeves, and try the caraco muslin on again. If the neckline comes up towards the neck, and the shoulders of the garment fit your shoulders, the sleeves will need to be widened, and the arm hole enlarged.

If your jacket is too tight or too loose around an area of your torso, the pattern will need to be cut apart and taped back together after adding or removing the necessary amounts. Generally, width must be added or taken away from both the front and the back of the jacket evenly.

If your jacket is too long or too short through the torso, it will need to be lengthened or shortened. Cut the pattern pieces apart on the adjustment lines. Add or subtract as needed. Remember - before adding length to your jacket, that you will have at least one, if not two petticoats tied around your waist, which tends to raise, as well as enlarge, the waistline.

If your jacket is overall too large or too small, you will need a different size entirely.

©J. P Ryan, 2002. All rights reserved, including the rights to reproduce this lesson or any portions thereof in any form. This lesson is intended only for the use of those who take the class via Costume Classroom, and is not to be shared in any form for any purpose without the express permission of the author.

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