Your pattern

Personal measurements vs. pattern sizes

Unlike modern clothing, 18th century garments fit very close to the body with limited wearing ease. What, you may ask, is that? Wearing ease is the difference between the size of the garment and the body over which it is to fit. For example, the wearing ease around the bust in most blouses is about 4" , such that the body measures 32" and the blouse measures 36". At the waist, there is only about 1" of wearing ease, such that if the body measures 24", the waistband measures 25". 18th century clothing had about the same amount of wearing ease as the modern waistband, only an inch. The same is true for your caraco pattern - it was designed with only 1" of wearing ease.

Adjusting your pattern

Please compare your personal measurements to the measurements given on the back of the pattern. If your measurements are not the same, you will need to make pattern corrections. For example, if your waist is larger than the number given, it will be necessary to split the pattern and add fullness at the waist area. This is a correction that can be made before making up your fitting muslin.

Please contact me privately or on the bulletin board, so we can discuss what adjustments, if any, will have to be made to your pattern. Certain adjustments may need to be made depending on your particular body type. For example, if you have heavy arms, it may be necessary to widen the sleeve, and enlarge the armhole; or if you are narrow through the shoulders, it may be necessary to take in the neckline and center back.

There is a small amount of adjustment opportunity in the design of the stomacher. You have been given approximately 1" of circular fitting flexibility without having to make major pattern adjustments. How much adjustment you will require will become apparent when you try on your fitting muslin.

This pattern was designed to fit over stays, and will not fit a modern body in modern underwear.

©J. P Ryan, 2002. All rights reserved, including the rights to reproduce this lesson or any portions thereof in any form. This lesson is intended only for the use of those who take the class via Costume Classroom, and is not to be shared in any form for any purpose without the express permission of the author.

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