Pattern Making- The Late Bustle Era Bodice The Look of the 1880's

The "look" as represented by extant garments in my collection. I like to collect garments the "average" person could have owned. Bodice circa 1875 I date this bodice to about 1875-76 because although the side forms are cut like the late bustle period, the front is still cut without underarm pieces, and instead is fitted with a waistline dart to remove the crease that will appear when there is no underarm piece. The velvet pieces are overlays, and the collar is made seperately and basted onto the round neckline of the bodice. The wide cuffs, long basque and velvet overlays are very common for the period 1875-1880. Circa 1885 bodice A silk cut velvet bodice that is a very common style for the period 1880-1889, this piece shows the usual pieces common for this era- back, sideform, underarm, and front fitted with two darts. It is buttoned closed with fancy buttons center front. An inside view of this bodice is also shown. Several bones have been removed from this bodice, some have been inserted into the seams, and some put in with casings. The inside seams are neatly finished by folding the fabric and interlining seam allowances back toward each other and stitching with a tiny overcast stitch. Notice how absolutely plain this bodice is- but the fabric and buttons give it a "rich" look. The bodice has been let out at the side seams. Circa 1889 Bodice This bodice looks a bit more complicated, but in reality is built on the same basic foundation as the previous bodice. The pleating at the back was laid on top of the two back linings and stitched down, and the front has an false front, and it appears at one time there may have been a seperate plastron (vest front) that could have been attached and worn with it. The collar is higher than the earlier pieces, it closes center front with hooks and eyes, and the sleeves have a slight gather at the top. The inside seams are finished with a buttonhole stitch in red silk, and the boning casings are put on with a feather stitch. I love this particular garment because of the other pieces I have that goes with it- there is a 1860's bodice and a 1889-91 era skirt of the same fabric. From the way the mend on the skirt is in the seam and the way the silk is pieced in on the undersleeve- I suspect the 1860's skirt was cut apart to make the 1889 outfit. Ideally a trip to a museum where you could make a "study" appointment to see the garments up close would be perfection, but since we are limited in time- a good online antique clothing dealer or online musuem can be just the thing to observe some clothing you would not otherwise get to see. Here are some great places to visit!! Usually dealers are fairly accuate on dates, but sometimes they slip- Always be wary... just because a date is listed does not mean it is correct. Leg of mutton sleeves have no place in the bustle era, and just because a skirt has back gathers does not make it a bustle skirt. *wink* Dealers AntiqueDress.com Davenport and Co Victorian Elegance Stitches in Time Bobby Dene's Vintage Clothing Museums Museum of the City of New York Kent State University The Vincent Collection And Let's not forget E-BAY! Now that you've seen the garment, lets take a look at the patterns that made them. Lesson 1-Page 5 Lesson Index Page 1- 2 - 3 - 4 - 5 - 6 - 7 - 8 - 9

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