Pattern Making- The Late Bustle Era Bodice Measuring

Sleeve measurement- center back to wrist over slightly bent arm Sleeve measure shoulder to wrist over slightly bent extended arm (notice this does NOT mean bent at a right angle at the elbow- just slightly bent about a 30 degree angle) Inside Arm measurement this measure is taken on the inner arm along slightly bent arm from wrist to lower frontmost armscye point as shown by red line. Remember take this along the INSIDE of the arm NOT the outside. Upper arm Elbow over slightly bent arm Forearm Wrist Armscye- this will be a "balance" measure- we will use it as a checkpoint to see if we need to adjust the armscye after it is drafted. For the 1880's this measurement is taken around the arm, not drawing the tape excessively tightly and placing it on the shoulder at the natural shoulder line where the arm meets the body.(In the late 1870's it will be taken a bit more "off the shoulder" but not as far down on the arm as the 1860's) Shoulder to elbow Neck Base- taken at the base of the throat Upper neck taken at the top of the neck height Neck height- how tall you would like your collar to be as allowed by your neck height. This can be 1-2.5 inches in the late 1870's to the late 1880's. Not shown Front neck, take this measurement at the base of the throat from side to side- it should be a longer measurement than the neck base measurement divided by 2, as the front of the neckline should dip lower than the back. Pay very close attention to all measurements, but measure the bust several times as the rest of the pattern will be based on this measurement. Make absolutely sure you are measuring at your fullest bust point! Your measuring chart will have the skirt measurements on it also - these aren't currently necessary but go ahead and get them for later use. You are already standing about in your underwear aren't you? Don't forget measure over your bustle! Front and side skirt lengths- measure to the ground and subtract the distance from the ground you want your skirt to be. (you will get a more "even" measurement that way) Back skirt measure measured over the bustle. Got your measurement chart all filled out? Now lets take a look at what we will be working on! Lesson 1-Page 3 Lesson Index Page 1- 2 - 3 - 4 - 5 - 6 - 7 - 8 - 9

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