IF The Manufactures of Silk, Wool, and Thread conduce very much to the Improvement and Advantage of Trade; Dying which adorns them with that agreeable variety of Colours, in imitation of what is most Beautiful in Nature, is the Soul which animates them; and without which they would be Spiritless Bodies.

Wool and Silk which in their natural Colour, rather shew the rusticity of the times, than any Genius in Man or the politeness of the Age; Would afford but a very indifferent Commerce, if Dying did not give 'em those Beauties Which cause a demand and render 'em desirable even amongst the barbarous Nations.

All visible things are distinguish'd and become desirable by their Colours; and 'tis not sufficient that the Colours are fine, to support and incourage the Trade of Stuffs; but they ought also to be good and equally lasting with the Stuffs themselves. The example of Nature its self clearly informs us of the difference : For if she bestows but a weak Colour upon Flowers, which quickly fades ; she alters her measures in Herbs, Metals and Precious Stones, which she endows with a stronger Dye, and a Colour proportjon'd to their duration.

We have in FRANCE great plenty of Woad, (*VOUDE) red Madder, Chermes Berries, SPANISH Broom and *Walnut Trees; not to mention several other Ingredients the Enumeration, Culture and Advantages of which, I shall shew in the twelfth Part of the Instructions; and indeed we want only Cocheneal to make us possessors of the Six best Druggs for Dying. Are not we then blind Enemies to our own welfare, in despising these excellent Dyes, and draining our Native Country of its money to purchase unprofitable Druggs of strangers, which only serves to Bastardize our Dyes and ruine our trade in Stuffs; and in the mean time ingratefully reject the Benefits which liberal Nature advantageously distributes to us.

*A worse sort of Woad so called. The Best being called PasteL.
*Racine from whence Couleur De Racine i.e. a Colour made from several parts of the Walnut Tree.

'Twas for this reason that his Majesty out of His justice and prudence, caused general Rules to be made for the better encouragement of Manufactures and Dying, and made them be Registered in his Presence in the Court of Parliament of PARIS, August 13, 1669, and sent Commissioners to put them in execution in all His provinces, the success of which has discovered its self in a very advantagious reformation in all our Manufactures. But as 'tis impossible to remedy at once all the abuses are crept into the Manufacture of Dying alone, by the injury of Time and the Villany or Ignorance of Men: And as 'tis not to be expected that any thing should he absolutely perfected in the beginning: So Time discovered other evils which wanted to be cured and faults which wanted to be mended. But his Majesty being inclin'd to put His last Hand to this Work; was of opinion that it could not be better done, than by causing Instructions to be drawn up more extensive than His Rules; which shou'd not only be capable to direct the Dyers in the observation of the mention'd Rules, and preparing good and Beautiful Dyes: But also to enable the judges of the POLICE &c. to Correct the abuses.

But perhaps some may object against this Instruction ; that it is too exact, that it discovers too many of the Secrets of Dying, and gives strangers an opportunity to take advantage of it. But as it is impossible to Instruct FRENCH Men otherwise, and we cannot be too nicely exact to prevent the decay and prevent the welfare of this Art; this objection seems too weak to deprive the Publick of this Work; especially if we consider that the utmost care that can be taken to keep up the Secrets of Dying, cannot hinder some to whom they must be intrusted from publishing them in a strange Country, if encouraged with the prospect of a small advantage to themselves; but and on the other side Strangers can reap no benefit by this Instruction Without producing in their Country a greater demand for the Dying Materials which FRANCE affords, the Profit of which will abundantly compensate our Secret of Dying. And we cannot but observe that the SPANIARDS who by all possible means have endeavoured to keep their Trade in the INDIES close lock'd up, have not made so good a Market of it as the HOLLANDERS who Publjsh'd theirs as much as possible by their Writings.

Others assert that Dying ought to be left free, and without the least restriction, because the good and durable Dyes enhance the price of our Stuffs and consequently hinder our Trade by lessening the demands: But the answer is easy, for this rise of the price (whilst the Money stayes in FRANCE by reason of the use of our own Druggs) being much less than the profit that arises thereby, cannot be considerable nor injurious to the publick, for 'tis well known that a Cloth of fifteen or twenty LIVRES the Ell, being well Dyed with red Madder, is but fifteen or sixteen SOLS the Ell dearer, than one that is not, nor does the same Cloth well Dyed with Woad become any dearer as than with Madder; tho', in the real value, Beautiful wearing, Goodness of Colour, and Lasting of the Stuff, 'tis one third better. Experience convinces us that the SPANISH black Cloaths have always been preferred to the DUTCH and ENGLISH purely for the excellence of their Dye ; tho' the Wool is of equal goodness and the make of the latter incomparably better than SPANISH and much cheaper.

'Tis impossible to wear Purple, Dove Colour, deep or light Violet Colours (Dyed with Brasil Wood) one month without fading, soiling, spoting, and Staining: And these Colours after they are Dyed Crimson cost indeed somewhat more, but you have then a Colour which will continue Beautiful as long as the Stuffs themselves, and if Spoted with dirt or grease can easily be Scoured and cleaned without danger of losing or injuring the Colour.

The Red * Madder dye is a Colour which never fades or changes, and is near as cheap as that done with Brasjl which is a bastard Colour, besides that the former grows in FRANCE and the latter is a product of a foreign Land.
* Rouge de Garance.

Indigo which produces a bastard Colour is only used because it is sometimes cheaper tho' often dearer than Woad, which yields one of the best Colours in the World, and hath formerly vastly enriched LANGUEDOC. The first Drugg being a stranger, wou'd it not be reasonable to prefer the second for being our own, tho' we had no respect to the fineness of its Colours ?

The difference in the Price between the true and a bastard Colour in narrow Stuffs is so small that the best black of the Serges DE RONE or DE * CHALLONS cannot cost above four SOLS more than the worst and the RAZES DE CHATRES and ETAMINES D' AMIENS but two SOLS; and yet those who are to wear them would not be without the Colour for one third part of the Stuff.
* vulgarly serge shalloons.

In this Instruction there is a good provision made for Stuffs of small value that they may not want a Dye suitable to their fineness and duration, without being at a great expence; tho' Dying never makes the Stuffs much dearer without the Colour its self be extraordinary, and the Stuffs thereby rendered more vendible.

If the difference in the Price betwixt a good and bad Dye is inconsiderable in Stuffs, 'tis yet less in Woolls which are used in mixed Stuffs, for they don't require an extraordinary bright Dye; neither do they take up many nor any very dear Druggs; because in Stuffs of this nature Dyed Wool is commonly mixed with raw or undyed, and good and dear Colours with worse and cheaper.

One Ell of Cloth of Ten, Twelve, or Fifteen LIVRES the Ell, weighs about three pounds, in which we need put no more than a third or fourth part of Violet Crimson Wool in the mixture; and tho' that be the dearest Colour which can be used in this mixture yet according to the 48 Article of this Instruction with a small ground of Madder or wild or Bastard Cochineal, the price of Cloath will not be raised above five or six SOLS the Ell higher than the bastard Dye tho' the mixture is really one third better in goodness.

If there are other Dyes which enhance the price of mixt Cloths equally or near as much as Crimson, there are several others that do not augment the price above two SOLS the Ell, besides in a mixt Colour where a third part Crimson (or any dear Dye) is once used, for Thirty times, there is not above or 1/8 or 1/20 or none at all used.

An ETAMINE DE RHEIMS & DE CHALONS which ought to be 11 or l2 Ells long, and weighs ordinarily about three pounds, requires but a Third or almost one half of black Wool in the mixture, which being first Dyed Sky Colour with Woad is but four or five SOLS dearer than unwoaded Wool, which doth not come to above Five DENIERS the Ell, not to speak of those ETAMINES where they don't put above one Sixth or Eighth of Black Wool, which makes the difference still less, tho' the Stuff is one Sixth part better to the buyer, besides that the black which has been first Woaded blew wears better and is much stronger than that which has not. He must be very ignorant in Dying and the Manufacture of Stuffs, that can believe that Woad renders the Wool hard or untractable, and tears or hinders the combing of it, when 'tis very well known that these inconveniences proceed from the Black Dye for want of the necessary ingredients, or due care in the performance; when if the Wool is Woaded, less Coperas is required to the Black, which is the only material that hardens it; but in the Dying Wool with Woad and black according to this Instruction, all these inconveniences are avoided and the small charge which arises thereupon is very advantagiously repaid.

Some will object that good Druggs are harder to work than the slighter, but this objection is in part owing to the pleasure which men take in slight work rather than good, and the uncommon pains they take in hopes of greater profit by the bastard Colour than the true: But if they would work with the same pleasure and application on the true Dye; they would succeed as well in these as in the others, and those who are not well enough instructed in the Art, have no more to do but to follow this instruction, which will remove their greatest obstructions, and inform them in the knowledge of several Drugs that very few knew to be of use in Dying.

It may also be alledged that several provinces abound in different Herbs, Roots, &c. proper for Dying, and have not only Commodities, but manners of working peculiar to themselves, which they will be deprived of the advantage of by this uniformity, that is to be setled in FRANCE; also that Dyers will hereby loose the advantage of what secrets they may discover in their Art. But as this uniformity only regards the establishment of the publick good, His Majesty does not hereby pretend to seclude any of these advantages to the Dyers, but only till they are viewed and examined upon the spot to see whether it be more profitable than injurious; in which case, no person will be deprived of the use of their own materials if they are good, and if know the most advantagious manner of using them. As Dying well is not without its reward of honour and profit which accrues to the Dyers in recompence of their labour, so the ill Dying will not continue without its due punishments; for all the avenues of Favour which were used by the subtil and humble Addresses of Merchants and Dyers to put off their Bastard Dyes are now close shut up, because Orders were given throughout the Kingdom to view and Mark all Merchandises, not only at the place of their Dying but also at the places of Sale and Transportation, under the penalty of confiscation of those which are ill Dyed, are either not Mark'd or wrong Mark'd.

The abuse was also grown frequent in the Manufacture and Dying of Hats as well as Stuffs, for which reason His Majesty hath been pleased to correct it, by a general Rule which is Established as a Law, and Order, for the time to come, amongst all the Hatters of the Realm, and hath thought necessary, to insert in this Instruction, the manner of, and the Drugs proper for a good Black Dye, to the End that the Ignorant Hatters might be informed and furnish'd with Instructions to perfect themselves in Dying, as well as the Judges and Commissioners be enabled to discover and correct the Abuses, which have ruined commerce in the Kingdom, and in Foreign Countries.

It tends then to our own advantage to Dye good Colours, as well as to the Publick Good and advance of the reputation of the Trade and Manufactures of FRANCE. This Instruction furnishes us with the means, to do what our own Consciences exact from us, that being engaged in an employ, we should apply our selves to perfect it so much as in us lyes, and joyfully embrace all means that may enable us to do well, and prevent our doing Ill, which Obliges us to praise the justice and Goodness of our King, who by a Happy Necessity has constrain'd us to do well for fear of being Punished, as knowing that this wholesome fear is the Foundation and beginning of Wisdom amongst Men.

This Instruction is Divided into Twelve Parts In Which is Contain'd:

IN the First, in vii Articles, the Five Principal Simple Colours for the Dying of Wool, the necessary Preparation of Stuffs, to the end they may thoroughly imbibe the Colour of the Dying Ingredient.

In the Second, in xxiv. Articles, beginning with the viiith. and ending with the xxxist. The best manner of using the Dying Ingredients, and of Dying to Perfection the Five Principal simple Colours, and consequently all others, used in the Dying of Wool, which proceed from them.

In the Third, in xiii. Articles, beginning with the xxxiid, and ending with the xlivth. The Mixtures of Colours proceeding from the Five Principal Simple Colours.

In the Fourth, in xxii. Articles, beginning with the xlvth, and ending with the lxvith. The Compound Colours, which are produced by the Mixture of two or more, of the Simple Colours.

In the Fifth, in xxii Articles, beginning with the lxviith, and ending with the lxxxviiith. All Dyers are divided into two sorts, the great or good Dyer, and the lesser Dyer, with the Reasons of this division; the Colours and Stuffs which each of them are freely permitted to Dye, the Apprentiship, Service, and Master pieces which each Dyer ought to perform.

In the Sixth, in xxiv. Articles, beginning with lxxxix., and ending cxii. The Mystery and Manner of Dying Wool for Tapistry and Canvas, the method of reducing the manner used at ROAN and other places to the great and less Dyes, the custom and necessity of using Leads or Signets to prevent the debasing our Stuffs and the falsification of our Dyes.

In the Seventh, in xiv, beginning with cxiii., and ending with cxxvi. The Drugs used to Dye the great or good Dyes, and the lesser Dyes; also those which are prohibited. The necessity of keeping their Books well, and of visiting the Dyers of both great and lesser Dyes.

In the Eighth, in xxxii Articles, beginning with cxxvii, ending with clviii. The reasons why some Druggs ought to be Prohibited and others permitted; why there some which ought to be allowed in some Colours, and forbidden in others, with other reasons which may serve as an answer to the Memorial design'd to be presented on this affair, and to the Objections which may be raised against this Instruction.

In the Ninth, in xxxvi. Articles, beginning with clix., and ending with cxciv. The Materials and manner of preparing a good black, with the necessary Woad and Madder grounds suitable to the goodness and Duration of the Stuffs. Also the method of preparing Stuffs, with Galls, &c. And the finishing of black.

In the Tenth, in xli., beginning with cxcv., and ending ccxxxv. The Grounds and Manner of Dying Black those Stuffs which have chang'd or lost their colour; the manner of Dying Black those which shou'd be mended, and Wools serving for Mixtures ; also of Dying slight Stuffs very cheap, with the Druggs necessary to, and the way of making the Proof boilings to try the Goodness of the Dye.

In the Eleventh Part, in xx. Articles, beginning with ccxxxvi., and ending with cclv. Of the Dying of Threds, Cloths made of Hemp, Linnen, Cotton, with what is necessary to the Perfection of Silk Dying; also to the making and well Dying of Hats.

In the Twelfth, in lxii, beginning with ccli., ending with cccxvii. The Advantage which will accrue to the publick, by the Use, Culture and greater Trade in the Good Druggs which abound in FRANCE, such as the Woad, the better and slighter sort of Madder, SPANISH Broom; Walnut Tree Root, Rinds and Shells, Chermes Berries, the Antient Purple SARRETTE, GENISTROLLE, RODOUL, Fovic, Tartar, dry Tartar, Verdigrease, Pot Ashes, Mineral Salts used in Dying, Allom, Galls, Alder Bark, FUSTEL, TREN.. TANEL, MALHERBE, GAROUILLE & ORSEILIS, with the conclusion of this Instruction and the Advantage which may Annually accrue to the Publick.

And lastly a Table of the Articles contain'd in this Instruction.

PART I.

II.
Those Colours are Blew, Red, Yellow, Tawny or Brown, and Black.

III.
Stuffs to be Dyed Red or Yellow must be boiled with Allom, Tartar and other Ingredients, which afford no Colour themselves, according to the Directions given hereafter.

IV.
Those to be Dyed Black must be boiled with Galls and Sumach, and for want of Sumach, with RODOUL or Fovic; being well prepared with these Ingredients, they turn of a Colour betwixt Tawny and Grey, and 'tis here to be observed that the Tawny or Brown is the same with the Colour Dyed with the several Parts of Walnut Tree.

V.
But those Stuffs which are to be Dyed Blew or Brown, must be Immediately taken from the Fulling Mills, and so be Dyed without any Previous preparation.

VI.
The cleanest and whitest Stuffs, which are made of the finest Wool, take the most bright and beautiful Colour.

VII.
The Stuffs whitned with Sulphur or Ceruse, ought to be very well cleansed from the pernicious relicts of those Ingredients, which hinder the penetration and beauty of the Dye, and prevent the Union of the Colours.

Observations.
AFTER the Author in the third Article hath directed us to boil our Stuffs, design'd for Red or Yellow, in Allom; in the fourth Article For Black, in Galls; in the Fifth Article He proceeds to instruct us to Dye Blew and Light Brown, just as they come from the Fulling Mills: But we ought to take Notice that tho' Woad Blew is a very subtil Penetrating Colour, which tinges very freely, yet Indigo is stronger, and to say truth Corrodes.

Wherefore in the first preparation of Wool, before it is brought to the Fulling Mills, it ought to be very well cleansed with Hogs grease; But in our GERMAN Dye House, Allom is frequently used in Blew's and is become sometimes necessary by reason of the great use of Indigo, (as will appear in our Observations on the following Article) I mean in the preparing of Stuffs. Tho others are for putting the Allom into the Vessel with the Dye, the first way makes the Dye take the better, and the last as well as the first, turns the Dye more towards the Black, than right Indigo would, if its strength were not somewhat broken by the Allom. For it would then become a sort of Violet. This is needless in Woad ; In the preparation for Reds and Yellow Dyes, Article 3, the Allom is design'd to make the Colours take the better; only in Blacks we ought to consider whether they are first dyed Blew, for the Best Blacks are those first Dyed with a Blew ground, especially if with Woad alone, which produces a Colour very different from Indigo as we shall shew. And if Black were Dyed without any other ground, Galls wou'd be very necessary, tho' in our Country they are very seldom used, for they perform the whole Dye with one Suds; but every Place hath it's particular method.

As to the 7th Article we seldom Whiten whole Pieces of Stuff this way that come to be dyed, unless it be Womens Gowns, which have been worn White a whole Summer, are to be Dyed against Winter; but the remedy is easy in ( ) either case for Soap Lye or Lime will remove the rough hardness of the Sulphur, and fair Water will remedy the Ceruse.

VIII.
THE Blew Dye is prepared from the best Woad called Pastel, which grows in the upper LANGUEDOC, and is the best and most necessary Drug in the Art of Dying; with VOUEDE, which is a sort of Woad, that's weaker and less substantial, and grows in NORMANDIE; and with Indigo which comes from the INDIES; which (tho' used alone is none of the best Colours yet,) never misses of success, if you do not mix above the quantity of Six Pound, with every Bail of Woad, and if it be not used before it is prepared in Copper and in the two first heatings.

IX.
The Dyers ought to be left to their liberty to put the Six Pounds of Indigo in the great copper, or to reserve a Part for the first, or for both heatings, that they may the more Conveniently prepare their lesser Dyes ; but they ought to be strictly forbidden to use Indigo, without it be first prepared with Tartar Ashes, or otherwise than with Woad, or put any more then Six Pound to every Bail of Woad, or to Heat it any more than twice, because a failure in any of these Particulars will produce a false or Bastard Dye. For the Substance of the Woad which is Necessary to correct the Indigo, will be wasted in the Working in the Copper and the two heatings.

X.
The VOUEDE or weaker Woad is not strong enough to correct the ill qualities of the Indigo, if not assisted by the virtue of the Pastel or best Woad, especially in the heatings where it is void of the substance which is wasted in the Copper. The quantity of Indigo ought not to be regulated by the weaker Woad, but by that of the best when it is put into the Copper, if you would have a good blew fit to be afterwards Dyed black.

XI.
If the Dyer is obliged to use the weaker Woad without the best, he ought to put as little Indigo into the Copper that the Woad may be able to correct it, a pound of Indigo being sufficient for a hundred of this sort of Woad, and he ought to put the Indigo and the Woad in together, and hinder their growing hot again for reasons above mention'd, of which he ought to take particular care.

XII.
The Dyers to help and heighten their blew use Brasjl Wood, or ORSEILLE or Bois D'INDE INDIAN Wood, which bastardises the colour, and makes it wear ill. This falsification cannot be better prevented than by a strict Prohibition that the Dyers of the great Dye should not be suffered to have them in their houses, nor use them in any colour in the great Dye.

XIII.
The Blew Dye may be rendered brightest by rincing the Stuff after it is Dyed and well washed in a little warm Water alone, or with a little Allom : But it is much better both for the Stuff and Dye to fill it with a Liquid or melted Soap, and afterwards to cleanse it very well from the said Soap. The deeper mixtures of Blew may be helped and heightened without any inconvenience, by first rincing them in Suds and after in Cochenill'd liquor; but if the same measures are taken with Sky colours and the lighter Blews, they will lose their bright Blew Lustre and incline to Grey.

XIV.
Bran and Starch Waters being good to dry and cleanse Blews from any clammy foulness, when they are design'd for another colour, are of no use in brightening Blews which are finished, as well because the Bran is apt to dry them too much and leave something in the Hair of the Stuffs which spots it like a Leper and hinders the Graining and Shearing the Stuffs, as because the Starch Waters leave a sort of mealiness upon the Stuffs, and deprive them of the necessary pliable softness.

XV.
There seven sorts of good Reds, which make four mixtures in the Composition of other Colours. The first is the Scarlet, called the Gobelins or FRENCH Scarlate; the Second Crimson; the Third Madder Red, or ROUGE DE GARANCE; the Fourth, half Scarlate ROUGE DE DEMY grain; the Fifth half Crimson; Sixth ROUGE DE NACARAT DE BOURRE, or Scarlate Shred Dye, a Colour somewhat paler than Orange, enclining to Crimson; The Seventh, The DUTCH Cochineal Scarlate. These seven sorts of good Red, may be reduced to three from the three principal Drugs which gives them the Dye, namely the Kermes Berries, Cochineal and Madder; but this division nor being so proper for the mixtures, or Composition of Colours, we shall rather make Use of the former.

The FRENCH Scarlate after it is boiled with Starch Waters, and again boil'd with other Starch Waters, Allom, a little dry Tartar, and Arsenic, is Colour'd Red with Argaric, Starch Waters, and Chermes Berries in grain and paste, of which Berries the best sort come from LANGUEDOC. Some Dyers superadd Cochineal, others Fenugreek, after which it is brightened with Starch Water, Argaric, Tartar and Turmerick. The Scarlates which are design'd for a deeper Dye, ought not to be brightened, if we don't design they should encline to the Scarlate shred, Nacarat, or Orange Red.

XVII.
Crimson after 'tis boiled with Starch Waters, allom and dry Tartar is tinged Red with Starch Waters, Tartar and Cochineal, MOSSEQUE OR TESCALL, which comes from the INDIES and is the dearest Drug in Dying.

XVIII.
The Madder Reds after being boiled with Allom, dry Tartar, Bran and Starch Water, are ting'd Red with the finest Madder, which comes from FLANDERS, and which may be Cultivated in several parts of FRANCE where it grows naturally. Some use Realgar or Arsenick, in the BEVILLION or boiling Ingredients others common or other Salt with Wheat Flower in the Madderage, or rather some Arsenick or Spirit of Wine, with Galls or Turmerick.

XIX.
Half grains or half Scarlates, after being boiled in the same manner as Scarlate, are tinged Red with Argaric, Starch Waters, one half Madder, and the other Chermes Berries, some adding Turmerick when they brighten them in the same manner as Scarlate.

XX.
Half Crimsons after boiling as the Crimsons or Madder Reds, are turn'd red with one half Madder, and the other half Cochineal.

XXI.
The Nacarat Flock or shred Red, is prepared by boiling the Scarlate Flocks or shreds in a BOUILLON with dry Tartar, and afterwards with starch Waters, Allom and Dry Tartar, then moderately Maddered and afterwards soaked in a Lye made of Tartar Ashes, clarifyed and corrected with Urine, and other light non dying Ingredients this is to be used as an essence extracted from the Colour of the Madder. But Your Stuffs ought to be first Dyed Yellow, before they are fit for the reception of this Dye.

XXII.
DUTCH Scarlate is boiled with Allom, Tartar, Sal Gemmae, AQUA FORTIS and Pease Flower in a tin Kettle, or else with AQUA FORTIS wherein Tin hath been dissolved; this Colour is tinged with Starch, Tartar, AQUA FORTIS and Cochineal MESSECAL or TESCALLE in the same Kettle. The manner of Cochinealing it must differ according as the manner of boiling does. This Colour is one of the brightest, it easily soils or spots either by Dirt, standing Water, Lye or other accidents, of which especial care ought to be taken, tho' there is no other Remedy in this case, than to repass it through the Dye.

XXIII.
Besides these sorts of Reds which are good dyes, and ought to be permitted, there is also another sort made with Brasil Wood, which ought to be prohibited because it produces a bastard Dye, and the Sun, the Air, the Dirt, the least sharp or Salt Water soils and spots it, and because it is a strange Drug which draws a great deal of money out of FRANCE, besides that all the mixtures, which are made with this Colour, may be very well supplied and easily imitated with good Reds and Ingredients, that serve to give and prepare Stuffs to receive a Red Dye.

XXIV.
The finest Yellows after being boiled with Allom alone, or with Allom and dry Tartar, are Coloured with SPANISH Broom, which grows in several Provinces in FRANCE. Turmerick which comes from the Indies, produces also a sort of Yellow, which is none of the best Colours; but serves to tinge Yellow and brighten those Colours wherein Chermes Berries, Cochineal and Madder is used: The Yellow Wood also which comes from the INDIES, produces a Yellow enclining to Gold Colour.

XXV.
A Third sort of Yellow is made with SARETTE and GENESTRELLE, which because it is not so fine as that made from SPANISH Broom, serves only for Green Phillamorts and other Compound Colours, where it is very proper: it may also be used to dye Carpets, coarse Wool and Stuffes, which don't exceed 20 pence the Ell, in Countries where there is no Spanish Broom.

XXVI.
The Walnut tree Brown is made with the Root, Bark, Leaves of the Tree, and Nut shells, which afford a good Colour. A good Brown may also be made with Chimney Soot; but that being of an unsavoury smell, and Walnut Trees being very plentiful in FRANCE, tis only used in Phillamorts, Ox Colours and other Dyes of that sort, where it is more proper and yields a finer Colour than Walnut tree; and it may likewise be used in Olive Green or Olive Colours.

XXVII.
GAROUILLE yields a Colour betwixt Brown and Grey, and gives a good lustre to mixt Wool, and being cleaned in the fulling Mills may be permitted for the mixture of Wool of a rat coloured Grey, and not for stuffes or other Colours besides the Rat Grey mixture.

XXVIII.
Trentanel, Malherbe, Fustel and other ingredients, yield a Colour betwixt Yellow and Brown ; some mix soot with them, to make a perfect Brown, but this and other Colours which are finer being more certainly prepared from SPANISH Brown, and Walnut tree roots, and the two first smelling very offensively and being Prejudicial to the Eyes of those who use them, 'tis proper that the General use of them should be forbid.

XXIX.
Black is prepared or Galled with Galls which come from ALEPPO or ALEXANDRIA, called GALLE A L'EPINE Thorn Galls, and Sumach and in places where they have no Sumach with Rodoul or Fovic, which grow in several Places in France and which are equivalent to Sumach: A Black is also made of Copperas and INDIAN Wood, which last though alone it produces a bastard Colour, yet when used with Galls and Coperas it affords a more durable bright, soft and blacker Colour upon Stuffs, and wears better than if Galls and Coperas were used without it but care ought to be taken that too much of it be not used, and that Woad and Madder be not used too sparingly any more than Galls and Coperas, the INDIAN Wood being to be added to the rest, without any diminution of their proportion but if you would make the hair of the finest and middling sorts of Wool softer or more flexible and pliable to the fingers of the Spinster and in the filling Mill, you ought to augment the INDIAN Wood, and diminish the Coperas in proportion in the Dying Wool Black. You may also use Yellow Wood with a little of the finest verdigrease.

XXX.
Another sort of Black is made with Alderbark and Smiths, Cutlers or Grinders dust, but as this alone does not yield a good Black, but makes the Stuffes and Wools rough and hard as Well as really injures them ; this sort of Black as Well as that wherein filings of Iron or Copper is used, ought to be absolutely forbidden in all Sorts of Goods and Wool.

XXXI.
Besides the Five Simple Colours, that of ORSEILE makes an agreeable mixture from Peach to blossom Colour Pale Pink, Light Flax, Amaranthy or Red Purple; and INDIAN Wood tinges Stuffs boiled with Allom and Tartar, with a mixture betwixt the light and the dark Violet: but as these two are bastard Colours which may be made good and one may easily imitate that of INDIAN Wood and that of ORSEILE throughout the first Colours, it is necessary to forbid INDIAN Wood absolutely and to permit ORSEILE only in meaner Stuffs not exceeding 20 pence the ElL.

Observations on the Second Part.
FROM the 7th Article to the 15th Article exclusive, the Author treats of the Permission of the most proper ingredients in the Blew Dye; and here 'twill not be improper to remark ; That in our common Dye Houses in our Blews the misuse seems to grow, for they use Indigo alone boiled with Madder and Pot Ashes, or at the most tempered with half Woad. An Example of the first is as follows, which is used and called good Blew by our Diers, &c. Take of Indigo that is good and clear one Pound, of Red Madder as much, of Pot Ashes from three to four pound, four Ladles full of unslaked Lime four Handful's of Wheat Bran, and lastly about eight quarts of Urine, let it boil four Hours, fill the Kettle half full of Water, and after that put in more Water by degrees, keep it lukewarm Twenty four Hours and if it is too weak, put in of unslaked Lime and Pot Ashes of each a Ladle full to strengthen it; we ought also to steep the Indigo in Urine over night to dissolve, otherwise the Lime cannot be well separated from it. If more Indigo be put in the Colour will be Blacker and harder: The Pot Ashes is ordered in so large a quantity as well to break the Madder, as because it will encline to Red and bastardise the Blew, so that a sufficient quantity thereof is required; tho' an unequal quantity is mentioned, yet if it be boiled in the least too much, the whole dye is spoiled or at least rendered weak, or fading and not durable and indeed the dye its self at best is no good, but apt to spot with the least drop of sharp or acid liquors that can fall on the Stuffs.

The following preparation of Indigo and Woad is much better. After your Water hath boiled a little in the Kettle put in four or five Handfuls of Wheat Bran, four pound of Pot ashes, let it boil a good hour, then put in four pound of Madder and let it boil a quarter of an Hour, the Copper being full to about Six Inches and cover'd; then add indigo and Woad of each Six pound and Eleven pound of Pot Ashes, put them into a little Kettle of Warm Water, let it boil moderately about half an Hour, stirring it continually and then put it into the Copper to the other. The Indigo Dye or that prepared from the Indigo alone must be done by a Lye made with Pot ashes with the addition of four or five Handfulls of Bran, As for Arsenic, 'tis a very dangerous Drug. wherefore twou'd be better to try Aquafortis Spirit of Salt, or Sal armoniac in the perfecting this Colour, and dismiss this injurious guest, for fear the very keeping it in our houses, should occasion some ill accidents by it's tastless quality, and because it is customary, after the Washing of new born Infants, for the first week in (GERMANY and in other Countries also) to rub them with Scarlate Cloths, and if this Drug be used, tho' in the least quantity, it may easily occasion very pernicious consequences. The Crimson Dye is very well known, and according to Article xviith, may be very easily prepared, if it receives no damage from the Fire, upon the due care of which depends more than is imagined, as he that tries will find to his loss ; however to oblige the Lovers of this Art, I will give the following proof of the preparation of this Dye: Make a Meal Water with sour Wheat Bran, LIQUEFIE it, and put it into Rain water and boil them together, then take Cochineal, (which has the precedent Night been dissolved in Water) put in first a little in a Ladle into the Water, and then stir it about, and so on till you have put in all; then the Stuffs to be Dyed, being before Allom'd, are to be put in, and when that is done they may if the Dyer pleases, be drawn thro a Lye to which may be added Tartar Ashes, or, take of Cochineal and White wine lees, or Tartar, an equal quantity, and put 'em into Hot Water, and let the Stuffs be rinced in it or drawn thro it, some add a little Arsenic, but there is yet no good Reason given why.

In the xviiith Article the manner of Dying Madder Red is prescribed, which is indeed not very difficult: One Pound of Madder is sufficient to Dye viii. pound of Stuff, it being first prepared and disposed to the reception of the Colour, by Allom and Tartar. Pot Ashes very much heightens Madder Dyes. Bran or Bran Water ought always to be mixt amongst the Red Dye. As for Brandy or Spirit of Wine, it brightens and throws forth the Colours, in an extraordinary manner, searching into the inmost Parts of the Dye, and cleansing it from all TERRESTREITY, spots or soils, and by the use of it the Dyer will find an Incredible advantage accrue to him. Turmerick is used alone in the Yellow and the mixture of Galls turns it Brown, the Virtues of which you have in Article iv. Half Crimson of both sorts in Article xix. and xx. may according to the Dyers pleasure, and capacity be used; that in Article xxi. Called Nacaret Red is unusual, and unknown, and accompanied with a great deal of unnecessary Labour and Charge, and withal very Unprofitable because it is not lasting. The DUTCH Scarlate is most in use and is well enough described in Article xxii. For every Pound of Stuff, must be used one Ounce of Cochineal, more or less according to its Goodness One Ounce and an half of AQUAFORTIS; in the Alloming some put Sal Armoniac in the place of Allom in the Suds; the Cochineal must always be beaten and prepared with Tartar. Scarlate is nothing else but a bright Crimson, more or less changed to the Yellow, and Aquafortis is the Ground of the whole change, for in a Wine Glass the Dye may be turned even to Yellow, and after bright again, and with Precipitating what the Dye consists of be brought to no Colour. That this Scarlate will easily spot, is too well known, and the Cause thereof very clear; and all Water brings it more or less to a Crimson again. Starch encreases the Substance of the Dye, thickens it and renders it more Viscous, and stiffens the Stuff by its Mealy Nature. The Fernabock Brasil Red, is very common in our Dyeries, for they Dye a sort of Crimson with that and Pot Ashes, mention'd, Article xxiii. tho' Experience contradicts his Assertion there. When we come to speak of mixt Dyes, we shall say something of a Scarlate, prepared from the Madder and Yellow Wood.

Yellow is amongst us prepared with Dyers Weed, and finished with Broom; some of Melilot, otherwise called Wild Clavers, some Corn or Wild Mary golds, some Turmerick which is very rich in Colour. Verstel Wood is also used as is the Gummi Gutta, for several ends. The Yellow Dye is not very difficult, its Foundation lies in the vegetables, and then the Pot ashes which heightens them. Turmerick Yellow Wood and Gummi Gutta, which some use, don't tinge the Stuffs kindly unless they be first prepared with Allom, and drawn thro' the Dye till it is Yellow enough. Turmerick and Gummi Gutta, are used in the yellowing of Scarlates as in Article xxiv. and xvi. and vii. The Brown of Article xxvi. is not so much in fashion with us, tho' according to the directions of the best Artists, Walnut leaves and shells are Chiefly used in Silk Dying, the Wood and Root not being in use. Soot is also used tho' not alone, vet in mixt Dyes as our Author tells us. The Brown Dye consists mostly in mixtures, either of Red and Black, or Yellow and Black according to the Dyers pleasure. As to Article Xxix. Concerning the preparation of Black, you may find in our first Observation, that previous preparations of woad or Madder Grounds or Boiling in Gall

XXXII.
THESE Five Simple Colours, compose several mixtures of Colours, beginning with lightest Pale, or Faint and ending with the deepest or Darkest.

XXXIII.
The Blew mixtures are le BLEU BLANC White Blew, Blew and BLEU NAISSANT bright Blew, BLUE PASLE Pale Blew, BLEU MOURANT faint Blew, BLEU MIGNON, BLEU CELESTE Sky Colour, BLEU REGNE, BLUE TURQUIN TURKISH Blew, BLEU DE Roy, FLEUR DE GUESDE SPANISH Broom Blossom, BLEU PERE ALDEGO and BLEU D' ENFER.

XXXIV.
Of the Seven sorts of good Reds, there are only Four, from which we draw mixtures, namely the Madder Red, Crimson, ROUGE DE BOURRE, or Flock Red, a Colour somewhat paler than Orange, enclining to Crimson and the DUTCH Scarlate. The Madder Red produces but very few, but we never draw any mixtures from the FRENCH Scarlate, neither from half Grain nor half Crimson, tho' several mixt Dyes may be produced from the half Crimson.

XXXV.
The mixtures of Madder Red are Flesh Colour, Onion Red with a little slackening of the Dye in the Copper; Flame Colour, Madder Isabella, Tile Colour, deep Madder Colour, GINGEOLIN, JUJUBE Colour being a Yellowish Red, and Madder Red. The Flame and Flesh Colours, as well as the Onion may also be Dyed with Cochineal, but the ISABELLA and the Tile Colours are the much better'd by rincing them in the DUTCH Madder'd Scarlate.

XXXVI.
The mixtures of Crimson and Apple Blossom, Flesh Colour, Peach Blossom, Rose Colour, INCARNADIN or ANEMONE Flesh Colour, Rosy Flesh Colour, deep Flesh Colour and Crimson.

XXXVII.
The mixtures of the ROUGE DE BOURRE or Pale Orange inclining to Crimson are the same with Crimson, but the Colours it produces are more Rosy or lively according to the well or ill ordering of the Fusion or Suds, or to the long or short duration of the Stuffs in the Allom, but the INCARDINES DE BOURRE or Anemony Flesh Colours are not used to rich Stuffes (because the Dye is not so good as that of Cochineal) but only in stuffes not exceeding Twenty pence the Ell.

XXXVIII.
The mixtures of DUTCH Scarlate, besides the flaming Flesh Colour, Peach Blossom, Rose, Anemony Flesh Colour, and deep Flesh Colour, which it produces in Common with the Crimson and ROUGE DE BOURRE, by adding Allom to the suds; yield cherry, Nacarate or Pale Orange enclining to Crimson, wild Poppy Colour, Fire Colour and DUTCH Scarlate, which may also be Produced with the BOURRE or Crimson Orange Dye tho' it tinges the Stuffs too much toward the Yellow.

XXXIX.
Brasil red which is a bastard Colour, is imitated ; but a much better Dye is prepared from Madder, Cochineal, and the Flock or shearing Dye, for which reason, I shall say nothing of this Mixture, it being forbidden.

XL.
The Dyers ought to be left to their own liberty to make their advantage of what remains of the Suds or baths of Good Dyes, that they may use them in Colours which their judgment or Industry may prompt them to.

XLI.
The Yellow's are the bright Yellow, Lemmon Colour, Pale Yellow, Straw Colour, common Yellow, and Gold Colour.

XLII.
No mixtures are prepared from the Brown, or Walnut Colour, tho' this simple Colour is used in the Composition of several Compound Colours.

XLIII.
Grey is a mixture of Black from the lightest sort which is White or light Grey, to the deepest which is Black grey, but if the Black be prepared from Galls and Coperas, 'tis not so proper in grey Mixtures, for you can draw very little Grey from thence; but INDIAN Wood is added in stuffs which don't exceed Twenty pence the Ell, and stuffs for linings not exceeding Thirty pence the Ell. The Colours which may be produced are the White or light Grey, Pearl Grey, leaden Grey, Lavender Grey, Beaver Grey, Wild dove Grey, Slate Grey, Fish or Cod Grey, Brown Grey, Twilight or Evening Grey, GRIS DE MORON and Black Grey; but these Colours are better'd by a little mixture of ORSEILLE, or a slack woad Dye but for the stuffs which exceed xx. pence the Ell, or linings which exceed XXX., instead of Woad, Cochineal and Madder ought to be used, to render the Colour better and more certain.

XLIV.
'Tis also to be observed, that in Colours where Galls and Coperas are used, Sumach RODOUL, or Fovic ought to be used, according as the Colour which is design'd and the Industry or Convenience of the Dyer gives opportunity.

Observations on the 3d Part.
In this Third Part is treated of the gradation of Colours; how from the lightest most Pale or faint, they proceed to the deepest or darkest, and that without any remarkable mixture with other dying Ingredients, only, by the quantity of the Colour or longer boiling of it, or by the addition of materials which in themselves afford no tincture, yet occasion a great Alteration in the Dyes. For example, in the Red Madder Dye, if the Madder be corrected with Pot ashes, it produces a genuine bright Red, but if it be augmented according to the weight of the Stuffs, it grows darker and darker, and put into the Liquor more or less Coperas, it yields an agreeable sort of Brown, lighter or deeper, according to the degrees the Artist designs; but mix Coperas alone with the Madder, and it quite alters the Dye to an agreeable Colour betwixt dark Yellowish Red, and Brown, which may be experimented in the small Compass of a Wine Glass ; and the Artist hath an Instruction sufficiently advantageous what Colours may be heightened or improved, without the addition of other Colours, and with very little trouble. Article xl. Informs us that the remains of the Suds, after a piece of Stuff has been Dyed, are still of use; and for one Instance, 'tis to be remembred that the TURKISH Blew Suds (one of the deep blews) after it has been used will Dye the BLEU BLANC or White Blew and the BLEU NAISSANT or bright Blew if the Colour hath not been before too much exhausted, fouled or changed, or at the worst so much PotAshes put in as tinges the Dye Green, and bastardises it: But more especially the remaining Suds of Black is used in our GERMAN Dyeries for the Darkning or deepning all sorts of Dyes.

XLV.
ALL mixtures of Compound Colours are made by the mixture of two or more Simple Colours, but they diversify their Colours according to the diversity of Drugs, which are used in the Simple Colours, of which these are composed.

XLVI.
From the mixture of Blew and FRENCH Scarlate are produced, COULEUR DE Roy the Kings Colour. COULEUR DE PRINCE, Princes Colour, and AMARANTE or Red Purple: when the Dye is brightened with Turmerick, it becomes of a Pansy Colour, otherwise called the Hearts ease Colour, which is a sort of Violet Brown, and the Violet not brightened ; but this mixture is very seldom used, because of the dearness of the Dye, and because these Colours are more conveniently and cheaper produced with Madder and Cochineal, than with Chermes Berries.

XLVII.
From Blew and Crimson are composed Dove Colour, Purple, AMARANTE or Red Purple Crimson, PANSY, or Violet Brown and Violet Crimson. From the same mixtures (the Stuffs being less boiled in Allom and Tartar) are produced the Silver Grey, Flax Grey, Flax Blossom Colour, Violet Grey and GRIS VINEUX (a sort of Grey enclining to Rose Wine Colour) from these two mixtures also are composed, all sorts of Grey Crimsons, and other Crimsons where the Brown is mixt, as Lavender Grey, Sage Grey, Wild Dove Colour, Leaden Grey, Slate Colour, Brown Bread Colour and TRISTAMIE. 'Tis to be Noted, that all those Colours are called Crimson, which are made with Cochineal.

XLVIII.
All Grey and other Crimsons, where Brown, is mixt, may be prepared with Bastard or Wild Cochineal, as well as the Dove, Purple, AMARANTE or Red Purple, PANSY or Violet Brown, and Violet Crimsons, in Stuffs not exceeding XX. pence the Ell ; also all Wools used in the mixture of high prized Stuffs render the price of Dying easy as possible without injuring the goodness of it. A little Madder may also be put into the Suds, in those Dyes which will bear it.

XLIX.
From the mixture of Blew and Madder Red, are composed COLEUR DE Roy, Kings Colour, COLEUR DE PRINCE Princes Colour, and minime or deep Tawny, as well as Tawny, Amarantus Colour or red Purple, and dry Rose Colour, tho' the three last are much better prepared with half Crimson. The minime or deep Tawny often wants soot or something to deepen the Brown; all Greys are composed of Madder, which are finish'd with Walnut tree root, leaves, &c. As Lavender Grey, Wild pidgeon, GRIS DE MOROU, Brown Grey, Twilight Grey, and other Greys of that mixture, together with brown Bread Colour, TRISTAMIE, COLEUR D' ALYCE, Claver or Melilot colour, BREDA Grey, and other sorts of Colours, which are composed of Blew Red Madder and Brown.

L.
From the fixture of Blew and half grain, are composed the Velvet Colour, Amaranthus, i.e.,red Purple, the Tawny, and dry rose Colour, but this mixture is not much in use, because of the dearness of the Chermes Berries, which is the principal Ingredient in one of these Colours.

LI.
From the mixture of Blew and half Crimson is composed the Amaranthus or red Colour Purple, Tawny, dry Rose, Pansie or violet Brown and Velvet Colour; in the two last less Madder ought to be used than Cochineal because the Pansie and Velvet Colour must be redder than the others. From this mixture you may also produce the Grey Brown and the Evening Grey.

LII.
From the mixture of the Blew and the Pale Orange, or Flock Colour, are produced the same Colours, as with Crimson; but the use of it ought to be forbid except in Dove Colour, Purple, Pansie, Violet, Silver Grey, Flax Grey, Flax blossom Colour and Violet Grey, in stuffs not exceeding 20 pence the Ell: if the Colours encline too much to the red, a little Allom and a weak Madder ground may be added.

LIII.
A mixture of Blew and DUTCH Scarlate is very seldom used, as well because of the high price of the Colours, as that the Colours of this mixture are more easily produced with Madder and Crimson.

LIV.
There are several compound Colours, which are made of several mixtures of simple Colours; but they are produced finer, better, more conveniently and cheaper, from one Ingredient alone than several, as the Art and Industry of the Dyer will inform him in the disposing and use of it.

LV.
The mixture of Blew and Yellow yield, the Yellow Green, Gay Light Green, Grass Green, Laurel Green, MALAQUEN Green, Brown Green, and Dark Green: it affords also Sea Green, CELADON Green, a Green mixt with White or Willow Green, Parrot Green, Colewort Green, but these last require less boiling than the former. The Willow Green and the Brimstone Colours may be made with Verdigrease, a Drug made in FRANCE, Copper filings, and the Stems and Stones of Grapes; the best is made at MONTPELLIER in LANGUEDOC.

LVI.
From the mixtures of Blew and Brown alone, no Colour is ever made; but several are produced from the mixture of Blew and Brown, with the Addition of Cochineal and Madder Red.

LVII.
Nor are any Colours composed of the mixtures, of Blew and Gray, without the Addition of some other Colour, as Brown or Red.

LVIII.
FRENCH Scarlate and Yellow are never used to produce Gold Colour, Morning dawning Yellow, Marigold Colour, Orange, Pale Orange, Pomgranate Blossom, Wild or Corn Poppy Colour or Fire Colour, because these Colours are more conveniently and cheaper prepared with Yellow, and Madder Red or the Flock Red. i.e., Pale Orange; But as those Colours which are prepared from Flocks or shreds, require a SPANISH Broom Yellow, so the Gold Colour, Day dawn Colour, and Madder'd Orange requires the SPANISH Broom Yellow with a little Turmerick in the Maddering, as the Madder'd NACARRET or Pale Orange requires Turmerick alone. ISABELLA and Buff Colours are also prepared a little SPANISH Broom Madder or Flocks.

LIX.
Nor any Dyes made of the mixture of Crimson or Cochineal Red with half Grain, nor of half Crimson with Yellow, tho' Turmerick agrees very well with Cochineal and Chermes Berries; The mixture of Flock Red, and Madder Red being Sufficient, and more convenient to prepare all sorts of mixtures of Colours, which are composed of Red and Yellow.

LX.
Tho' tis said that several mixtures of Colours are never made, it does not follow, but they may be made, and that is only said to show that they re unusual, or that they are finer or cheaper or easier done with one Simple Colour, than with the addition of others ; But the experienc'd dyer knows how to use the Good Drugs, which are permitted, and to turn the remains of his Suds (after Dying some Colour) to advantage in the mixtures of Colours, where he thinks it Proper, that liberty be entirely left him, as the Ill use of it for the bastardising of Colours ought to be absolutely forbidden.

LXI.
A mixture is made of Bastard Colours, with brasil Red and Turmerick or SPANISH Broom Yellow, which ought to be absolutely forbidden; This mixture of compound Colours being made very well and finer with the Flock Colour.

LXII.
From the mixture of Red unboiled, and Brown is produced Cinamon Colour, Chestnut Colour, Musk and Bearskin Colours. Musk Colour requires a rebate in the Dye with SPANISH Broom, and the Bearskin with SPANISH Broom or Browning. COULEUR DE Roy (or Kings Colour) may also be very well made with Madder Red, and the Brown prepared from several parts of Walnut Tree, but instead of Madder, the Dyer of the Lesser or slighter Dyes may use ORSEILLE for the first sort of Colours, and only for the Stuffs which don't exceed xxx pence the ElI; but for the Kings Colour, it must be Madder'd to a good Dye.

LXIII.
From the mixture of Yellow and Brown, are produced all the mixtures of Phillamort, and Hair Colour, which are finer prepared with Soot, than the several Parts of Walnut Tree, especially if the Soot be used at the Latter end of a Maddering that is mixt with Turmerick.

LXIV.
No mixtures is made of Yellow with Black, SPANISH Broom serving only to abate the Redness of some Grey Colours, and to encline others to the Green, as for instance Water Grey, Green Grey, Gooseturd Green and the like Colours.

LXV.
All Olive Colours from the Brownest to the brightest, are only Greens rebated, or corrected with Walnut tree, Yellow Wood or Soot.

LXVI.
Having shewed the manner of preparing Sage Grey, Wild Dove Grey, Slate Colour, Brown Bread Colour, TRISTAMIE, C0LEUR D' ALYSE or Claver Colour, Leaden Grey, GRIS DE MOROU, Brown Grey and Twilight Grey, with Woad, Cochineal or Madder, and the Parts of Walnut Tree; and since the greatest part of the Colours composed of three or four Simple Colours may be several ways very well prepared with several sorts of Drugs, The Dyers ought to be left to their liberty, to use and finish their Dyes according to their convenience and knowledge; But it ought to be strictly prohibited that the drugs of the slighter or lesser Dyes be used in the greater or good Dyes, and that no stuffs be Dyed with the lesser Dye, which ought to be Dyed with the greater and good Dye.

Observations on the fourth Part.
The former part treated of the practice of Dying Simple Colours, and heightning the Dyes, so this informs us of the product of the mixtures of Simple Colours. Article xlvii. from the mixture of Blew and Chermes Berries Dyes arises a Purple, if the Blew ground be very light; also according to Masters, the Cochineal and Tartar mixed with Violet will produce the same effect. Article xlvi. and Article xlvii. inform us that from the mixture of Blew and Crimson, all sorts of Greys are produced, if the Stuffs be a little Allomed, but we ought to know that Allom being an acid Salt, and Tartar a sort of Coagulated Vinegar, Crimson and all soft or nice Colours are hereby inclined toward a light bright Yellowish Red, wherefore the less of these ingredients is used, the blewer and darker will the Dye be, the same may be said of Grey Purples and Violets but it is to be observed that some add the Brown as a third in the mixture corrected with Turmerick, Article xlix. we ought to be told that Tauny is sometimes Dyed with Black tho' upon blew it is best ; but in the following receipts you have both Ways tho' the latter is the best.

To Dye Tawny.

DYE the Stuffs first Madder Red, then take the Fire Colour Dye, and put in one part Black therein, and let them heat again; then Work the Stuffs in it so long till it is light or dark according to your desire.

Another way to Dye Tawny.

LET the Stuffs first be Dyed a light Blew for light Tawny, and dark Blew for deep Tawny, then being Allom'd cool'd and clean'd they must be rinced through Madder Suds, till they are light or dark as you would have them. The Author in Article lxiii. directs to make Philemort and Hair Colours by mixing Yellow and Walnut tree brown: Now the like or the same Colour is produced with Yellow and Black, as well as by reheating a lighter Red Colour in Madder Suds, or in Brasil Wood, and tis also to be observed that in Article Ix. 'tis hinted that the same Colour may be produced several Ways, tho' some are better, more lasting and beauteous than the other, and that the experienced Artist ought to determine which is best. Also in this Article he treats of the use of the remaining Suds as in Article xl. the Workman may use that to the hightening the same Colours, or throwing out others, or attempting new ones according to Discretion. To conclude our observations on this Article, 'tis proper to hint that all mixtures of Dyes look better upon the Stuffs than in the Copper, and that a Colour is very much sett off by mixture with others. Article lxii. The Author hints, That Stuffs not exceeding 20d. the Ell, are Dyed in Madder Suds, in the Great Dyery, and then the Black Dyer tinges it with his Black mixture, which is clearly forbidden in Article lxvi.

LXVII.
'Tis so necessary to divide the Art of Dying into two parts, viz., the great or good Dye, and the lesser and slight, and to establish a Law that the Dyers of the great Dye, should not have it in their power to use or keep in their Houses, INDIAN Wood or ORSEILE, nor to finish the Blacks they begun, any more than the Dyers of lesser Dyes should be permitted to Gall or Black them without a ground of Woad alone, or Woad and Madder; or having liberty to use INDIAN Wood and ORSEILE for the diminishing all sorts of blacks, and for grey's, and Walnut browns, in Stuffs not exceeding 20 pence the Ell, and those design'd for linings not exceeding 30 pence the Ell, should be allowed to use them in Stuffs of higher price; that the Omission of such a division would render it impossible to arrive at the perfection of Dying, or to have the greatest part of the Colours without falsification, either by want of the necessary ground or the use of ORSEILE or INDIAN wood in stuffes and in Dyes, wherein these Colours can bastardise the Dye. It being not sufficient only to forbid bastard Dyes, but to retrench the Dyers from having so much as the Power or opportunity to bastardise them.

LXIII.
'Tis impossible to give the last perfection to black Dyes, without INDIAN Wood, especially in Wools for mixture, or render the price of Dying slight stuffs and coarse Wools, reasonable, without using it in the room of Woad, Madder or Cochineal grounds; nor can the slighter stuffs afford even INDIAN or ORSEILLE in Greys and Walnut Colours, so that if the same Dyer should Dye both sorts, or the Art being parted it should be permitted for the Dyer of the great Dye, to finish what he had begun, 'tis not impossible but the Dyers might have an Opportunity to falsify the Blews with INDIAN Wood and ORSEILE, or use them in Grey's or Walnut tree Colours in Stuffs of value, which will by this means be deprived of their necessary good ground; or which is worse they will finish their blacks, as tis very easy for them to do, with Galls, Sumach, and Copperas without ever giving it the Woad, or Madder Ground which is absolutely necessary to produce a good Dye.

LXIX.
There is no better way to hinder the falsification of Dyes, than after the Dyer of the good Dye hath given Stuffs the necessary ground of Woad, Madder and Cochineal, to oblige the Dyer of the lesser Dye to tinge them with several parts of Walnut S.A. tree Gall them, tinge them to black and brown or grey, it being no less necessary to sort the Colours according to the desired mixture, than to give the Stuff a fine and beautiful Dye, neither of which can without great difficulty be done, if the Dye is begun, pursued and ended by one Dyer. We need not be so very strict in the Dyes which should pass from the Dyers of the greater to the Dyers of the lesser dye, the black only excepted, which is the most important, and wants to be sorted to no mixture, but is liable to the most frauds, which are most difficult to discover, for the falsification of other Colours being more visible may be easier discovered and prevented by the leaden Marks and Seals, &c. which ought strictly to be observed; of which more afterward.

LXX.
As this division will make more Master Dyers, so will it also increase the Number of Inspectors; for the Dyers of the lesser Dye will be obliged to look after the Grounds of the greater Dyers, and the latter will also be obliged to see that the other finish the Blacks well after they have given them a good Ground; and each being obliged to put his Lead or Mark, there is little likelyhood that one will be willing to bear the Blame for the others Faults, or make themselves liable to answer for them: Nor can they have a good Understanding amongst so many visible Marks and inspectors which will expose their contraventions, besides the Care the Merchants will in all probability take; they also having a Power of visiting which enables them to look after both sorts of Dyers.

LXXI.
To obtain the necessary Advantage of this Division, and that every Dyer may know what Stuffs and Colours, and with what Drugs it shall be lawful for him to Dye, without encroaching upon one another, 'tis necessary that the greater Dyers should dye all sorts of spun Wool, or Wool to be spun, and all sorts of Woolen Stuffes of what goodness soever, of the following Colours, viz., all sorts of good Blews, Reds and Yellows, from the lightest to the deepest Dye, as well as all sorts of mixtures of Colours which proceed from two or three of these simple Colours, Blew, Red and Yellow, in the manner before specified.

LXXII.
The Dyers of the great Dye may also dye the Greys and Walnut Tree Dyes of all Stuffes exceeding twenty pence the Ell, and Stuffes for Linings exceeding thirty pence the Ell, with the Woad, Madder or Cochineal ground, in Dyes where it is necessary, as wild Dove, Grey, Slate Colour, leaden Grey, brown Bread Colour, TRISTAMIE, COULEUR D' ALYCE, Brown grey and the like; and for the justification of themselves, they ought to be obliged to leave at each end of the piece of Stuff a little Rose of every sort of Ground they have given it in the dying it; and if it be a Colour begun and ended without any precedent Ground, the Rose or mark ought to remain White.

LXXIII.
The Dyers of the great Dye may also Woad and Madder all Stuffes of high Prices, and only Woad the Stuffes of midling or lower Prices conformable to the CLXXVIII. Article and according to this Instruction, before the lesser Dyers should be permitted to Gall them or Dye them Black.

LXXIV.
The Dyers of the lesser Dye may Dye all sorts of low priced Wool, spun or to be spun, Stuffes not exceeding twenty pence the Ell, Linnen Stuffes not exceeding thirty pence the Ell; all sorts of Walnut Tree and Grey Dyes, as Deer Colour, Cinamon Colour, COULEUR D' ALYCE, brown Bread Colour, TRISTAMIE, Musk and Cheesecake Colours, Minim Brown or deep Tawny; White Grey, Pearl Grey, Mouse Grey, Beavor Grey, Breda Grey, Water Grey, Wild Dove Grey, Slate Colour, Lead Grey, Bear skin Grey, GRIS DE MOROU, and other such like Colours, which may be begun and ended without any Ground, Red or rebate of Woad, Madder or Cochineal: And you may use for these instead of Woad, Madder or Cochineal, INDIAN Wood or Orseille, for those sorts of Dyes and for Stuffes, Wooll &c. which exceed not the Price set in this Article, and without permitting them to leave any Rose mark.

LXXV.
The Dyers of the lesser Dye may also Dye low priced Wools and Stuffes, not exceeding twenty pence the Ell, in COULEUR DE SYLOCE Peach Blossom Colour, Flax Grey, Wine Colour, and all low mixtures which are prepared with Orseille alone, without medling with mixtures deeper than Velvet Colour, nor adding any other Ingredients to produce the mixture of Violet, Amarantus, Tawny, dry Rose, SURBRUN or other the like, and withall they are not permitted to leave any Rose mark upon the Stuffes.

LXXVI.
And because bastard Cochineal may happen to be very dear, and the Good Dyers may sometimes be without Flocks, and that the Rebate or little tincture of Woad, which the Dyers may give to Tawny, Amarantus, or dry Rose Colours, in the Copper, may not sufficiently encline to Red. To sort this mixture, 'tis necessary in this Case that the lesser Dyers should finish the Violet Dyes in coarse spun Wool, serving to the making of BERGAMO or coarse Tapestries, or other low priced Stuffs, with Orseille, after the great Dyer hath given them a sufficient ground of Woad; as well as he might give a Luster to the Tawnies, dry Rose and Amarantus Colours, after the great Dyer hath sufficiently Woaded and Maddered them; to testify which he should be obliged to leave his Rose Marks, which the lesser Dyer should be obliged to preserve, as well as the Marks of Woading in Violets, and in both Cases both are to add their own Mark, that the two Leads may be a satisfactory justification that the Stuffes have passed thro' both Dyes, but they ought to be forbid the use of Orseille in Wools for mixture of the same Colours, or in Stuffes exceeding twenty or thirty pence the Ell as above, or in any other Colours of the Good Dye, but Violets, Tawnies, Amarantus, and other Colours of these two mixtures as in form above order'd.

LXXVII.
The Dyers of the lesser Dye may also Dye all sorts of browning or repassing thro' the Dye in mixt Grey, or coarse Woolen Manufactures, and they may herein use for browning Galls, Orseille and Indian Wood, but they must not augment the Dye therewith above one fourth part, and for their justification therein, they must leave a little Rose, of the same Colour the Stuffes were before in the end of the piece; nor ought they to brown or deepen the said place, that if they have more augmented the Dye than necessary, it may be discovered by a little boiling of a Pattern taken from that Rose. The Dyers of the great Dye may also Dye browner, or repass thro' the great Dye but with the Baths of Cochineal and Madder alone, without any mixture of Dying Ingredients.

LXXVIII.
The Dyers of the lesser Dye may also Dye all Sorts of Woollen Manufactures of what fineness soever, after they have been Woaded and Madder'd, or Woaded alone, (conformable to the 178 Article) by the great Dyers, but they ought not to Gall or black any Woollen Manufactures, without either the Woad ground alone, or the Woad and Madder ground, nor without the Rose and other Marks as before specified, and shall afterwards be declared.

LXXIX.
The Dyers of the lesser Dye may also Dye and Re dye all old Cloaths or Worn Stuffes, Black of all sorts, Walnut Browns, Greys, Browns; tho' if the Stuffes are of Value and have not been much worn, they are obliged to give them the ground necessary to the good Dye; but for all other Colours they, as well as new Stuffes for Furniture and Houses, ought to be Dyed by the great Dyers with the same ground as other Stuffes, without their being obliged to put their Mark, if they alone Dye, the Colour itself being sufficient indication of its own Goodness. But in Black the great Dyer, after having given them the necessary ground, is obliged to set his Mark, and cause the lesser Dyer to finish them, and put his leaden Mark also just by the others, to the end that the owners of the Stuffes may keep the Marks, in order to have his remedy against the great Dyer to whom he intrusted his Stuff in Case it be ill dyed; and he against the lesser Dyer, if the Fault be in the Black which he hath given it.

LXXX.
It is necessary to prohibit both sorts of Dyers to encroach one upon the other, nor is it proper for the great Dyers to keep the Drugs in their Houses which are used in the lesser Dyes, to Dye the lesser Dyes or Gall Stuffes, or finish the Blacks; any more than it is reasonable that the lesser Dyers should keep in their Houses the Drugs of the greater Dye, or Dye any Stuffes or Colours which belong to it, or finish the Blacks, unless they are Woaded, or Woaded and Maddered by the great Dyers. It ought here to be lawful for all Persons who have Stuffes under twenty pence the Ell, old Cloaths or worn Stuffes, to send them to the great Dyer to have the Ground of the good Dye, but if they wou'd have them dyed Black or Re dyed, they ought to be finished wholly by the lesser Dyer.

LXXXI.
'Tis necessary to prohibit all Merchants from giving Stuffes exceeding twenty pence the Ell, or Lining Stuffes exceeding thirty pence the Ell, Which they have bought White, to the lesser dyers to be dyed; nor ought they to be suffered any Stuffes to be dyed Black without the necessary Grounds of Woad, or Woad and Madder ; they ought also to be forbidden to order their Manufactures to be dyed false Colours, or holding any correspondence with or assisting the Dyers to that end, or to cause them to use any forbidden Drugs.

LXXXII.
'Tis necessary in Towns where there is but one Dyer, that he should dye the greater as well as the lesser Dye if he knows how; still observing the Rules and Rose Marks, and putting his leaden mark of the great Dye and to Stuffes and Colours of the great Dye, and his leaden mark of the lesser dye to Stuffes and Colours of the lesser, and the marks of both where they have participated of both; but where he is not skilful enough in his Art, he ought only to dye the lesser Dye and use that mark only.

LXXXIII.
'Tis necessary in Towns where there is only one of the greater Dyers, that a lesser Dyer shou'd also be placed there, that one may look after and be responsible for the other; otherwise no perfection in the Art of great Dying is to be expected.

LXXXIV.
The Art of great or good Dye being very difficult to learn, requires a long experience to arrive at any perfection in it; for which Reason 'tis necessary, that those who are design'd for Masters in it, should be at least four Years Apprentices to a Master of the great Dye; and that before he be admitted a Master himself, he produce his Indenture, and Witness that he hath not only serv'd his time out, but that he also at least work'd four more years with him, or some other Master, after which he may demand leave to shew his Master piece or Specimen of ability, which if it be well performed, he ought to be admitted a Master Dyer of the great Dye, but if it is not approved he ought to be sent back to learn, for so long time as is necessary to inform him in these things wherein he is deficient.

LXXXV.
Tho' the Art of using Woad is the most difficult and necessary Part of Dying, so before any one can be allowed to Work as a Master, he ought to prepare the Madder Red Dye, the Crimson Violet, the Green, Brown Tawny, or Woad and Madder Black, which are four Dyes, which 'tis absolutely necessary a Master of the great Dye should be perfect in, for which Reason those who would be Masters, ought (besides the working at the Copper for Six Days) to be obliged to Dye a Piece of Stuff, Madder Red one Crimson Violet, one Green and one Woad or Madder'd Black Brown, after which they ought to be admitted Masters, Members of their Company, and may in their turn expect to become Wardens, &c. of their Company, and their Widows and Children are to enjoy all the honours and Privileges of the Art of great Dying. But the Sons of Masters of great Dye, ought to be obliged to no more than two years Apprentisage, and to be a journeyman with their Father or some other Master, for two Years more, and to be obliged perform, but two of the four Proof Pieces, and have their option of those too, and to Work at the Copper but three days: If a journey man Marrys a Masters daughter, he ought in right of his Marriage, to enjoy the same Privileges as a Dyers Son, still taking it for granted that the Father of the Son or Daughter has himself perform'd his proof piece, and not otherwise.

LXXXVI.
There being no proof or Master piece established for the lesser Dyers, and it being necessary that those who would be admitted Masters, should be knowing and experienced in their Art, 'tis necessary for the future that they should serve an Apprenticage of four Years, continuing with a Master of the great and good or lesser Dye, and work journey work under a Master of the lesser Dye for three Years; after which being desirous to be admitted Master and Member of the Company, they ought to dye four pieces, viz., two of Cloath which they ought to dye Black, one after the great dyer has Woaded it, and the other after he has Woaded and Madder'd it, and to Dye two pieces of Stuffes, not exceeding the price of twenty pence the Ell, one Beavor Grey, and the other brown Bread Colour, without any participation of the great Dye; which done, and having taken the necessary Oaths, he ought to be admitted Master and registered in the Company of lesser Dyers, and to enjoy all Privileges and Advantages of that Art, as ought also his Widow and Children. The Sons of Masters are obliged only to two Years Apprentisage, and to be journey Men two Years with their Fathers or some other Masters, and they should be obliged to Dye but one piece Black and a slight piece of Stuff, and to have their Option; the Journey Men marrying their Master's Daughters to enjoy the same Advantage.

LXXXVII.
'Tis also necessary if Apprentices or Journey Men of the great or lesser Dye, are convicted of having robb'd their Masters, that they be for ever incapable of being admitted Master, and their Sentence to be written in the register of the Company to have recourse to upon all occasions; and that the Apprentices or Journey Men do not Dye in their own or Master's Houses for their own Profit upon pain of exemplary punishment.

LXXXVIII.
'Tis also necessary that all Persons whatsoever besides Master Dyers, should strictly be forbidden the Dying or Re dying all sorts of Woollen Manufactures whatsoever; except Hat makers which may Dye their own Hats, and Clothiers their Wool for mixture, with the several parts of Walnut Tree only, being forbid to keep Galls, Coperas or other dying Ingredients in their Houses, or dye any other Wools for mixture, or any Stuffes at all.

LXXXIX.
THE Wool, Cruels, &c. used in the finest luster'd Tapestries, and in Needle Tapestries wrought on Canvas, ought to be dyed with the good Dye in the same manner as Stuffes; the perfection of dying them, consisting as well in the proper mixture of the Dyes, and preventing the felting and tangling of the Cruels, &c. as in the beauty and goodness of the Dyes, and it being very difficult, if not impossible, to sort the Dyes to their mixtures, or to hinder the felting and entangling the Wools if they pass through two several Dyers Hands.

XC.
It is therefore necessary that the Dyers of those sorts of Woolls, Cruels, Worstead, &c. should Dye both the greater and lesser Dye, but to the end that their mixtures of Colours may be the better sorted, they ought to be strictly forbidden the use of INDIAN Wood or Orseille, or the dying of any sorts of Manufactures, or any Wool, Cruel, &c. but what is design'd for these ends. The Wool, Worstead, &c., used in the making of BERGAMOS in the coarse Tapistry, being coarser, and the mixture of the Dye not being so difficult ought to be dyed by the greater and lesser Dyers, according to the fineness or make of the Worsteads, &c. used in the said BERGAMOS.

XCI.
The Dyers of Wools, Worstead, &c. for the fine Tapistries, not having Colour enough to make a boiling in the Copper, may nevertheless Dye their Cruels, &c. at the greater or lesser Dyers, and sort their mixtures themselves, paying the Dyer as they can agree with him without his being responsible for the goodness of the Dye or sorting of the mixtures, which ought to be govern'd by the Tapistry Cruel Dyers, according to the Rules and Penalties which they are liable to.

XCII.
The Tapistry Dyers may also (where there are no other Dyers) dye all sorts of Wool and Woollen Manufactures, observing the Rose and Lead Marks according to the Rules mention'd; but that they may not abuse this Liberty, the Commissaries and judges of the Police ought to be enjoyned to enquire whether the Tapistry Dyer makes or Dyes Stuffes enough to employ a dyer; and if there are a sufficient quantity of Masters or journey Men fit to be Masters; and to order the most intelligent in the mixture of Dyes for Cruel, Worstead, &c. for Tapistry to that Work, and the most knowing in the great and lesser dye to that work, according to the Capacities or number of Masters to be found, or which they please to appoint in these places.

XCIII.
The Corporation of Dyers at ROUAN having been always divided into three different functions viz. in Woaders, Madderers and Blackers or dyers of Black, each of which is entirely ignorant of the others manner of Dying, it is to be fear'd if they were in a hurry obliged to submit to the present Rule, that not knowing how to prepare the dyes which might be demanded of them, the Art of Dying and Commerce might receive a very great damage thereby.

XCIV.
To avoid which Inconvenience, it would be necessary to let those which are already set up, continue in their old way, provided they observe the Rules of this Instruction, as well for the good Colours as the Rose or lead Marks, because the due observance thereof will prevent any inconveniencies, the Madderer being obliged to answer or the Woaders Dye as the blacker is to answer or the dyes of both the other.

XCV.
But to the end that this Custom may by degrees wear out, without any prejudice to the Art of good Dying, and that an Uniformity may be established throughout the Realm, a Master Woader and Master Madderer, if they please, should so enter into Partnership in the same House, to Dye jointly the greater Dye, as prescribed in this Instruction ; and after having so continued the space of four Years, they should also be at Liberty to separate, and each of them to set up for the great Dye and to enjoy themselves, their Widows and Children, the Benefits and Advantages of Masters thereof, or return to the former profession at Pleasure, but should be obliged to declare before the judges of Manufactures, which they choose.

XCVI.
Tho' if at present any Master Madderers are able to Woad, or Woaders able to Madder, it would not be in the least inconvenient to accelerate the uniformity by admitting them Masters of the greater Dye and present them with all its Privilege and Advantages without their being obliged to enter into partnerships : but they ought to be very well examined before the judges of Manufactures, to the end that this insufficiency may occasion no prejudice to the Art of Dying or themselves And care ought also to be taken that no Woader be admitted without admitting a Madderer, at the same time, to prevent the Woaders being more able to Madder and Cochineal, than the Madderers would be to Woad, and consequently drawing all their work from them. The same care ought to be taken of Widows.

XCVII.
For the Master Blackers of Rouen, having versed themselves in the lesser Dye, 'twould be very easy for them to exercise it as prescribed in this Instruction, because there is very little difference between one and the other.

XCVIII.
If it is found necessary to permit any other Custom to continue as it is, for the good of the respective Towns, where it is in use, or to comply with the weakness of the Master, and tend to the Advantage of the Provinces where it is, it ought as much as is possible to be squared according to the model of this Instruction, in the great or lesser Dye, to bring the Dyers into the best way, by the softest methods.

XCIX.
To avoid the Mischiefs which may arise by an Understanding betwixt the greater and lesser Dyer, and betwixt the latter, and the Merchant, to fall the Price of Dying by putting them to the lesser Dyer, without their being grounded by the greater Dyer; the lesser Dyer ought to be absolutely restrained from receiving any Stuffs above 20 pence the Ell, or Lining Stuffs above Thirty Pence the Ell, or any to Dye Black, without the the great Dyer hath given them the necessary Ground, or without his Rose and Lead Mark at one, or at both ends, if the Piece be double.

C.
The Lead or Mark of every Dyer is so necessary to be put at the end of every piece of Stuff, that it is only the way to detect any fraud in the Dye, and the guilty Person, in order to bring him to condign Punishment; But to the end that the Leaden Marks may be clearly distinguishable, and at first sight discover whether the Stuffs be Dyed by the greater or lesser Dyer, or by both; 'tis necessary that every greater Dyer shou'd have a little Anvil engraven round the Name of the Place, and in the middle the Words BON TEINT, i.e., good Dye, in Capital Letters and a Stamp with his Name Graven on it in Capitals also, so that striking the Lead with the Stamp upon the Anvil he may imprint it as above on both sides.

CI.
The lesser Dyer shou'd also have the same sort of Stamps and Anvils with this difference only, that in the Place of BON TEINT, good Dye, shou'd be engraven PETIT TEINT, lesser Dye, all in Capitals as the other.

CII.
Every Dyer ought to be obliged to put his Leaden Mark at one end of every Piece of Stuff which he Dyes; and if the Piece be double, at both ends: if the piece be Dyed of both Dyes, each Dyer ought to put his Leaden Mark; the Mark of the lesser Dye being put next to but a little lower than the greater.

CIII.
Stuffs which have past the last Hand of the Dyer, either of the great or lesser Dye, alone or both : before the Merchant receives them; ought to pass the Views of the Court which shou'd be appointed for this end, and there Visited by the Drapers Officers in conjunction with the Sworn Dyer, who is to assist them; and if they are found to be well Dyed and Rose and Lead Marked, they should be Marked with the Lead Mark of the Court, Engraven with the Word TEINTURE, i.e., Dying; with the name of the Town the last Lead being necessary to approve and confirm the others.

CIV.
If any Piece of ill Stuff be found Ill Dyed or wrong Rose or Lead Mark'd; not only the Stuff and Dyer shou'd be seized and fined, but the Possessor of it, whether the lesser Dyer, for finishing it without the necessary Ground, or the Merchants for receiving it, or sending it to the Shearer or Callender without the Mark of the Court, nay even the Callender, ought to be fined for receiving it.

CV.
And that the Marks may be the better known, they should not be put upon the Stuffs till after they have received the last Hand of each Dyer, first of the great Dyer for Black, when they are deliver'd to the lesser Dyer; and when the lesser Dyer hath finished them he is to deliver them to the Court to pass search, and be Marked; and if the Marks are not sufficiently clear, they may be Stampt again to render them plainer.

CVI.
And to prevent any Persons slipping another Piece in the Place of that, which is Seized, the Officers of the Drapery or Sworn Dyer, and others as well Merchants as Dyers belonging to the Court, should be empowered to affix their Mark or Seal with Wax or Lead, and to draw up an Indictment immediately in order to lay it before the judges of Manufactures, where for a more ample Verification, as well the mention'd Officers of the Draperie as the Sworn Dyers, and the defendant ought to be present or duely summoned to give satisfaction to the judges, that the piece is the same, and to examine the boiling or Dye, whether it be duely prepared with the necessary Drugs.

CVII.
And to break all the Measures which shall be taken for the bastardising of good Dyes, 'tis necessary to enjoyn all Dyers of the good Dye upon forfeiture of the Price of their Dye given to the Stuffs, to leave one or two little Rose Marks at each end of the piece, one of the Blew and the other of the Madder Red which they have given to the Stuffs; And the lesser Dyer should be obliged to leave another Rose mark in the middle, or at the other side of each end of the Rose, if there be but one to justify its Colour before it was Galled and Blacked.

CVIII.
The great Dyers ought to be obliged to do the same in all Dyes, which they finish themselves without the assistance of the lesser Dye, leaving little Roses or Rose Marks, viz., in Greens, one of the Yellow, and another of the Blew, in which they have Dyed it; in PHILLAMORTS one of Yellow and the other of Brown in Crimsons, one of the Blew, and the other of the Cochineal Red; in Tawnyes or Amarantes, one of Woad and another of Madder, or the half Crimson Dyes, with which they have tinged it; and so of the rest.

CIX
As 'tis necessary to leave little Roses or Rose Marks of every Dye us'd, in all Stuffs which have received a Compound Dye, 'tis also necessary to leave a little White Rose in all simple Dyes, as Blew, Red, Yellow, as well as in Browns and Greys in Stuffs exceeding xx. Pence the Ell, and Lining Stuffs exceeding xxx. Pence the Ell; because these Stuffs ought, besides the Leaden Mark of the Dyer, to have the little Rose or Rose Marks which should be the general Mark of good Dying, whether it hath been Dyed by one or both Dyers according to the difference of the Mysteries of the great or lesser Dying.

CX.
As the little Roses at one or both ends of the Stuffs, ought to be the general Marks of good or great Dying, the want of them in a Dyed Stuff ought to be an infallible sign of the lesser Dye; wherefore it is necessary strictly to forbid all Dyers of the lesser Dye, to leave any Rose Marks in their Greys, Walnut Tree Dyes, in low Prized Stuffs, nor in any Stuffs or Colours which they begin, and finish without participation of the good Dye, except in their Browning alone to justifie what Colour the Stuff was before, and the augmentation of Dye they have given it, to the end that the Publick may not be cheated, and may be inform'd, by the sole inspection of the Marks and Roses, of the difference betwixt the great and lesser Dye.

CM.
The Dyers of the lesser Dye ought nevertheless to be enjoyned to preserve the Rose Marks which the great Dyers shall leave upon the Stuffs, in the same Colours, in their participation, of both the Dyes, and leave another in the Colour the Stuff was before it was Galled, Black'd, or ORSEIL'D, as is before Specified in this instruction; to the end that the Publick may know by the Roses and the two Marks, the Colours which the two Dyes have given it.

CXII.
But as there be some Merchants or Dyers who may be Ignorant, or at least pretend to be so, of the grounds of Woad matter or Cochineal necessary to a good Dye, and by this means find an excuse for retrenching a Part of the Dye, 'tis necessary that besides 16 Patterns of Colours mentioned in the Fourth Article of the Rule, others should be also Dyed, which shou'd serve as Patterns for all sorts of grounds, the one half whereof to remain in the Court of Draper, and the other in the Court of the Dyers of the good Dye, as well to have recourse to in the search, whether the grounds given be conformable to these Patterns, as to compare them with the Rose Marks, or that they may be enabled to lend a Pattern to all the Dyers, to regulate themselves in the same ground, or to put into the boiling together with the Patterns of the ground, which you wou'd justify, or which you would examine the falshood of.

Here the German Author makes his Annotations on the Fifth and Sixth Books, but they consisting only of repetitions of the Law of Dying abovementioned, and fearing that Me English Reader may be tired, I rather chose to omit them, than trespass father upon his Patience.

CXIII.
TO the end that no Person may be Ignorant of the Drugs which are allowed, and which are forbidden particularly in the greater or lesser Dye, or in common to both, they ought to be inform'd.

CXIV.
That the Drugs which in themselves afford no Colour but are used to dispose the Stuffs to attract the Colour of the Dying ingredients, or to render the Colour more Beautiful and certain, ought all to be allowed to the Dyer of the great Dye only, because the use of them cannot be injurious to Colours of the great Dye, but in the lesser Dye they have a clean contrary effect and serve only to spoil the Dye.

CXV.
As Dyers of the great Dye may severally use different Non dying ingredients to produce the effect, one choosing one way and another a different; so they ought to be allowed to keep in their Houses all materials of this Nature useful in Dying, and to use them which way they think necessary.

CXVI.
Non dying Drugs in the good Dye, are Allom, Tartar, Arsenic, Realgar, or the Arsenic the Gold smiths use, Salt peter, Nitre, Sal Gemma, Sal Armoniac, Common Salt, Mineral Salt, Salt or Christal of Tatrar, Argaric, Spirit of Wine, Urine, Tin, Bran, Pease and Wheat flower, Starch, Lime, common Ashes, Pot-Ashes and Tartar Ashes.

CXVII.
The Dying Drugs which ought to be used by great Dyers only, are AURAGCEIS and ALBIGIOS Woad, Slight Woad, Indigo, Cochineal, MESLEQUE and PESQUALLE or the right best sort of high prized Stuffs and Wild or Bastard Cochineal for slight Stuffs, and Wools for mixtures, Madder, BOURRE or Goats Hair, Turmerick, SPANISH Broom, SARRETTE, GENISTROLLE and Soot, for Philamorts, Hair Colours and Olives only.

CXVIII.
The Lesser Dyers ought to be restrained from keeping in their Houses, Shops, or Ware-houses any of the said Ingredients, and not permitted to use any of them. SPANISH Brown only excepted in the softning of Blacks, and the rebates of Greys.

CXIX.
The Drugs which ought to be common to Dyers of the greater and lesser Dyes, are those which afford very little Colour, or else tinge Brown as the Root, Bark, Leaves of the Walnut-tree, and the Nut-shells; and GARUOILLE, Galls, Sumach, Rodoul and Coperas: but the great Dyers ought to be allowed but very small quantities of the latter four Ingredients, and only as much as may be necessary for a light Browning, which it is allowable for them to give to Dyes, in which it is difficult to sort their mixtures without an Allowance to diminish their necessary Ground which ought always to be as strong as their Patterns.

CXX.
Besides the Ingredients allowed in common to both Dyes, the lesser Dyers may have the use in the lesser Dye, Orseille, INDIAN Wood and Verdigrease, according to this Instruction ; but use ought absolutely to be forbidden the great Dyers, to use or keep them in their Houses, Shops Warehouses.

CXXI.
The Drugs which ought to be absolutely forbidden, to both sorts of Dyers as well as of the greater as lesser Dye, are Brasil Wood, ROCOURT, bastard Saffron, Turnsole, ANCHUSA or GROMEL, filings of Iron or Copper, Cutlers and other Grinders dust, RODOUL and Sumach, which have been used in the Dying Turky or other leathers, because all these Bastardize the Colour, harden the Wools and spoil the Stuff, Fustel, Yellow-Wood TRENTENEL, MALHERBE, and AIder Bark ought to be prohibited, except in Places where SPANISH Broom, SARETTE GENESTROLLE, and the several Parts of Walnut-tree Sumach, Fovic, RODOUL, are us'd; but in the other places the use of them in Dying, ought to be entirely forbidden.

CXII.
If the Dyers Books be well kept, and a faithful account be kept, as well of what Drugs they buy, as the Goods they Dye daily, and what Goods they send to the lesser Dyers, and what they deliver to the Merchants, or the Person who is to deliver them into the Hands of the Court, 'twould occasion two great conveniences, for which Reason, the said Books ought to be methodized and paragraph'd by the judges of Manufactures.

CXXIII.
The first advantage which would accrue by the well keeping of the Dyers Books, is that the great Dyers Books would quadrate with the lesser Dyers Books, and both with the Hall Register of every Town. Which would prevent all good understanding, betwixt the Merchant the Dyer in the Trade of Bastard Dying, and the former's receiving his goods without the Hall Seal, or Verification, and prevent all the Dyers Measures for the use of false Drugs, or above Six Pound of Indigo to every Bale of Woad and one Pound to every Hundred weight of the slighter Woad.

CXXIV.
And in the second Place it would effectually remove all cause of dispute, or Law Suit betwixt the Merchants and the Dyers, occasion'd by fraud or accounts Ill kept on either side ; or when by the negligence or dishonesty of the Servants, Factors and others, any Goods are lost or spoiled, the true and just right of either side would clearly appear by this method.

CXXV.
Besides these Precautions 'tis also necessary, that the Officers of the Draperie and the Sworn good Dyers, accompanied with some Merchants or Dyers of the Inquest, should every Week or at least every Fortnight, search the Dye Houses of both sorts of Dyers, to see if their Drugs be good, and their Stuffs well Dyed, whether they have given them the due Ground, and finishing necessary to the perfection of the Dye, and if their Books are well kept as above specified.

CXXVI.
'Tis also necessary that the Inquest, should keep a Register in due form, and enter therein the Number of Coppers of both sorts of Woad, which every Dyer boils every Week, and the quantities of both sorts of Woad which he puts into every Copper, how many times he reheats them, and the quantity of Indigo which he uses in the good Copper, or in the reheating, that if any thing be committed irregular, they may Secure and Indict the Persons before the Judges of Manufactures.

CXXVII.
THE use of all Non-colouring Drugs, ought to be allowed to the greater Dyers, because they only serve to dispose Stuff, to receive the Dye, and to render it more lasting and Beautiful.

CXXVIII.
There are three sorts of Non-dying Ingredients which Beautify the Dye, and a little alter the strength of it. As CENDRE GRAVELEE, or Tartar Ashes, which a little slackens the Madder Dye, enclining it more to Red in the Copper. Urine which brightens the Dye; and Aquafortis, which easily slackens the Luster of Fire or Nacarat, in Cochineal, by several little Spots, which it easily Imprints. These Drugs ought to be allowed, that we may not be deprived of those two fine Colours, which cannot be made so Beautiful and bright without them.

CXXIX.
The two sorts of Woad, Chermes Berries, Chermes Paste Cochineal, MESEQUE, TESQUALLE, CAMPESSIANE and SYLVESTRE, Hair or Flocks, SARETTE, and GENESTROLLE ought all to be permitted to Dyers of the great and good Dye, because they all contribute to the preparing of good Dye.

CXXX.
Tho' Turmerick does not afford so lasting a Yellow as Spanish Broom; yet it ought to be allowed to the greater Dyers, because there is no other ingredient more proper to give a Nacarat, or Yellow Orange lustre, to Reds Dyed with Chermes Berries as the FRENCH Scarlate, as well as with Cochineal, as Crimson, or Madder, as the Madder Nacaret or Orange. Aqua-fortis will also doe the same thing, but it succeeds much the best in DUTCH Scarlate.

CXXXI.
Indigo ought also to be allowed because tho' it does not yield a good Colour if used alone, yet it produces a good Dye if used with Woad, as directed in Article 8, 9, 10 and Il. of this instruction ; and farther because at present we are not over stored with Woad, and Indigo being one of the Chains which fastens the INDIAN Trade to FRANCE, it ought to be used.

CXXXII.
Soot yielding a Brown Dye of a nasty smell might be forbidden, because of the ill scent, if it was not a prevention against the Worms, and more proper for Philamorts and Ox Colour, than Walnut-tree; when it is used in Madderage with Turmerick.

CXXXIII.
The Root, Bark, and Leaves of Walnut-tree and the Nut-shells, Galls, Sumach, Fovic, RODOUL, and Coperas, are all very good ingredients. Which serve either to prepare Stuffes or Dye them, and ought to be allowed in Common to both sorts of Dyers, because both are allowed to Dye Grey, and Walnut-tree Dyes, the great Dyers in Stuffs exceeding 20 pence the Ell, and Lining Stuffs exceeding half a Crown the Ell: and the lesser Dyers, in those under those Prices, wherefore 'tis necessary to permit them in common to both Dyers, to be used according to the 119 Article of this Instruction, because they cannot otherwise sort or mix their Colours.

CXXXIV.
GAROUILLE producing a Colour proper for Wools, for mixture in Rat Colour, the Wool being cleans'd in the fulling Mill, 'tis proper to use this Drug, because it will serve to produce the Rat Greys in coarse as well as fine Wools; it ought to be allowed in common to the greater or lesser Dyers, in the Wools for mixtures which they are respectively permitted to Dye.

CXXXV.
Tho' INDIAN Wood used with Allom and Tartar, produces a false Colour, yet it yields a good and lasting Dye if used with Galls, Sumach, Rodoul, Fovic, Coperas and Verdigrease; in Blacks where it is very good to soften the Blacks and Stuffs, and makes both wear better; 'tis proper to be used in Grey and Walnut-tree Dyes of Stuffs not exceeding 20 pence the Ell, and Linnen Stuffs not exceeding half a Crown the Ell, to render the price of Dying as easy as possible; and because the great Dyers may misuse it in the falsification of Blew, or in Substituting it in the place of Woad, 'tis only to be permitted to the lesser Dyers, who are not allowed to Dye with Allom and Tartar Ashes, by which precautions the ill use thereof will be prevented.

CXXXVI.
Orseille producing a beautiful, tho' no lasting Dye, ought therefore to be allowed to the lesser Dyers in the lighter Colours of its mixture, which are difficult to be imitated, and also to give a lustre to Walnut tree Dyes; because the lesser Dyers are not allowed to Dye high priced Stuffs, and the low priced goods cannot go to the price of a strong Dye.

CXXXVII.
Alder Bark hath nothing ill in it, and the sole apprehension that it contributes to the using of Smith's Dust in the Dye, hath occasioned its prohibition, but the Advantage which occurs by the diminution of the price of Black, Grey and Walnut-tree Dyes in low-priced Stuffs where it is very proper, prevails over this fear, so that after forbidding the Smiths Dust, it entirely vanishes; and it is proper to allow Alder Bark to the lesser Dyers only, and not to the greater Dyers, how necessary soever it may be, which ought to be examined upon the Spot, and thus far it ought to be forbidden.

CXXXVIII.
Verdigrease which serves to tinge the beautiful Colours of Celadon Green and Brimstone Colour, and being useful used in small quantities and half hot with INDIAN Wood Blacks, ought not to be forbidden, because it is not only advantagious and cannot be injurious (if used according to this Instruction) to the goodness or beauty of Colours, but because it affords its Dye without the preparation of Allom and Tartar, and is proper in Blacks; it ought to be allowed to the lesser Dyers, whose Business it is to dye Black.

CXXXIX.
TRENTANEL and MALHERB being a little injurious to the sight of those who use it,and their Dyes not being so certain or lasting as that of SPANISH Broom SARETTE and GENISTROLLE, nor the Colour of FUSTEL so lasting as that of SPANISH Broom or Walnut-tree, yet it serving to the heightning NACARAT DE BOURRE or pale Orange which Yellow Wood also doth, are the reasons why these four Ingredients are prohibited at present in the Dying of Wool, except the Yellow Wood which is allowed in Black.

CXL.
Smiths or Cutlers Dust, and filings of Iron or Copper which sensibly spoil and harden the Stuffs and stick in the Threads and eat into them as well as the Worm, are three Ingredients which are wholly improper in Dying Wool, and ought to be absolutely forbidden as well as Turnsole.

CXLI.
GROMEL which affords a red brown inclining to Tawny, whose Dye being neither so fine, so good or so cheap as Madder, and being besides a Foreign Drug, ought to be absolutely forbidden as an unprofitable Ingredient.

CLXII.
The Rocourt Dye being dearer, and not so fine and lasting as that of Flocks, ought to be absolutely Prohibited, as well because 'tis a Foreign Drug, as, because it easily fades in Wool.

CXLIII.
Bastard Saffron being neither so good nor profitable in dying of Wools, which receive the Dye of the Flocks much better, ought also to be absolutely forbidden, that the Dyers may not amuse themselves by drawing a false Colour from a very dear Drug.

CXLIV.
Brasil ought to be intirely forbidden as well because it is a Bastard Dye and a Foreign Drug, which draws a great deal of money out of our Country, as because it cannot be allowed to the greater Dyers, without breaking all the Precautions taken by this Instruction, and opening a way to Bastard Dyes; Nor can it be allowed to the lesser Dyers, without the same inconvenience, and without allowing them at the same time Allom and Tartar, without which they cannot use it, and it will also give them an opportunity of Dying the Bastard Colour of INDIAN Wood; For all which Reasons I think necessary to repeat it, that Brasil Wood ought to be absolutely forbidden, to both sorts of Dyers.

CXLV.
ORSEILLE is allowed rather then Brasil, as well because it is used without Allom or Tartar, as because it is a Drug which Grow's, and is prepared in FRANCE, and the chief Colours of its mixtures are very difficult to supply otherwise; but Brasil may be easily supplied with Madder, Flocks or Cochineal: besides, the Madder Red, which is a very good Colour, is not much dearer than that of Brasil which is a Bastard Dye. CXLVI.
All Drugs what soever which are not expressly allowed, ought to be supposed forbidden, tho' the Reason for their prohibition be not here express'd.

CXLVII.
Of the five simple Colours, Blew, Red and Yellow ought to be left to the greater Dyers, to Dye only without any participation of the lesser Dye, as well because they have a great deal of reciprocal relation, and require a large share of Knowledge and Experience to succeed in them, as because of all the Colours produced from their mixture the possibility of a Bastard one should be prevented; one good Colour grafted on another, tho' it yield a darker, yet it is a more lasting one.

CXLVIII.
The other two simple Colours namely Brown and Black ought to be left differently to both sorts of Dyers. The Black having before received the Woad or Woad and Madder Grounds necessary to the good Dye of the great Dyer, and afterwards galled and blackned by the lesser Dye to deprive the great Dyers of an opportunity of Dying Blacks without the Woad or Madder Grounds, and falsifying the Blew, which they might easily do if they were allowed to finish the Blacks and to use INDIAN Wood.

CXLIX.
And because fine Wools, and high priced Stuffs, as well as coarse Wools and low priced Stuffs, are dyed Brown and Grey, which are mixtures of black, and that several of these Greys and Browns require Woad, Madder or Cochineal, to produce the good Dye, and course Wool and slight Stuffs cannot afford the price of those Drugs: To remedy which by lowering the price of Dying, INDIAN Wood and Orseille --ought to be used: and for fear the greater Dyers should misuse them, 'tis necessary to allow the Brown and Greys to be differently Dyed by both Dyers, viz., the great Dyers to Dye the high priced Stuffs with the ground or finishing of Woad, Madder or Cochineal in Colours where it is necessary, and the lesser Dyers the meaner Stuffs with INDIAN Wood and Orseille, to the end that both may sort their Colours, and that the good Dye may not have leave to use INDIAN Wood or Orseille in Greys or Walnut-tree Dyes in fine Stuffs, nor to the Bastardizing the Blew.

CL.
After having given the Reasons why some Drugs are allowed and others forbidden, and why Dying is divided into the great and lesser Dye, it being necessary yet to answer some Memoires, and these Answers serving to illustrate and remove all difficulties from things of this nature, it is thought good to include them in this Instruction to the end that every Person may inform himself thereof.

CLI.
Some Dyers are of the Opinion that the Brasil Wood Dye mixt with Walnut-tree yields a lasting Colour in Wool for mixture; but experience demonstrates the contrary and the use of Madder being more efficacious, the desire of using it can only be attributed to an ill Custom and disgust against well doing, for if any Colour lasts in the mixture of Stuffs, 'tis rather the effect of Walnut or Galls than Brasil, for the Violet Colour which it gives to Stuffes, intirely vanishes, especially if they are used in Breeches betwixt the thighs, or the Stuffs in wearing are exposed to the Sun or ill Weather, it quite changes to a Yellowish or brown Colour very different from the rest; and INDIAN Wood it self, tho' strengthned with Verdigrease, Galls and Coperas in blacks, being used in too great quantity either in Grey or Walnut-tree Dyes, of Wools for mixture or Stuffs or in brownings, is very apt to spot with the least drop of Urine, or any Acid or corroding Liquor: wherefore Woad, Madder and Cochineal, are better used in Wools or Stuffs of value in Colours where the too great quantity of the other, and the small quantity of Galls or Coperas, which may be used, produces this ill effect.

CLII.
There are others who imagine because Fustel and Yellow Wood are proper in Gold Colour, Shammy or Buff Colour and necessary in Olives and Phillamorts that they ought to be allowed in these Dyes, that indeed they may be furnished with an Opportunity of using them in the Bastardizing and strengthning of NACARET Flocks, pale Oranges, or other important Colours which they can alter: but supposing that incorporated with SPANISH Broom it composes a better and more lasting Yellow, Olive and Philamort Dyes, than SPANISH Broom alone: For who is ignorant that knows but the least principles of Dying, that SPANISH Broom cannot produce a Phillamort or Olive Colour, if there be not Brown mixt with Yellow in the first, and above that with the Blew and Yellow for the first, and Brown, Blew and Yellow for the second, and that the Brown for these two Colours can more easily be tinged with Soot and Walnut-tree: But 'tis with this pretext that they Colour their earnest desire to have Fustel allowed them, that they may really use it in the falsification of Dyes wherein it is forbid. Yellow Wood being nevertheless proper for Blacks, 'twill be necessary to allow it in places where it shall be found necessary.

CLIII.
There are yet other Dyers whose Intention to act slily and closely renders them more dangerous, who to cloak their contravening designs, desire leave to prepare certain Dyes, as that they call Beaver- Black without being obliged to disclose what Drugs they use, nor the manner of preparing it. If their Drugs were good and allowed, they would not have occasion for any other than the general permission, but their Ingredient being forbidden we ought always to distrust their intention, till by a just examination of the Drugs and manner of preparing this Colour, we be able to judge of the good and advantage of this Colour, and of the permission which they desire.

CLIV.
But that no discoverer of any secret in this Art may be deprived of the advantage of his Invention, nor Labour under any inconveniences by this examination, nor loose any other profit by it; if it be found good and advantageous, it will be necessary to grant the Inventer, or he that brings it into FRANCE, a Patent that no Person besides himself should exercise it in that Province: where he thinks fit to settle, and that he should be empowered to sell or give leave to others, to exercise it in all the other Counties of FRANCE.

CLV.
The same may be effectually extended to Forreigners to oblige them by this Privilege to discover their secret and reap the advantage of it in FRANCE; But care ought always to be taken that a good secret never remain in the hands of one Person alone, least it should be lost by his leaving the Kingdom or his death, which may be easily remedyed by allowing them the profit of teaching it in other Provinces : But if the secret is known to any Frenchman he ought always to be preferred to Strangers, because he is likely to stay with the money he gets by it in the Realm.

CLV.
As 'tis of great importance to search in Provinces, for all the Herbs, Drugs, Minerals, or Roots which may contribute to good Dying; 'tis also necessary that they should not be permitted, before a strict examination whether their Colour good and profitable, and as there are provinces which want one thing and abound in another which produces the same effect it should be committed to the prudence of the judges of manufactures, that are upon the spot, who ought to give their resolution in writing upon the petition presented; and as delays may be very pernicious, if the ingredient be found to be good, the use of it ought to be allowed during the Kings pleasure, or till further order only.

CLVII.
But to prevent any impertinent petitions which may be presented upon this occasion, or any other person's serving himself of the allowance of any Drug in one Colour, where it is proper to use it in another, where it perniciously either falsifies the Dye or damages the Stuffes, 'tis necessary to impose a penalty upon those who present these petitions; that thay may take care to examine them strictly before they offer them.

CLVIII.
Tho' 'tis certain that a Black Dye in which INDIAN-Wood is used as specifyed in this instruction, may be very easily done and that it is warmer, finer, softer, and wears better than without it; yet it doth not very naturally follow that we should therefore deprive the Stuffes of the necessary ground of Woad, (as some Dyers will very improperly do in weak and slight Stuffs) as well because to render the Black certain and lasting, requires a double quantity of other ingredients which renders it dearer than Woad, (which will oblige the Dyers to compass their ends to retrench the greatest part of the Dye, and thereby render the Colour doubly ill:) as because the Black Dyes where INDIAN-Wood is used in too great a quantity, without being fortified by a Woad or Woad and Madder ground, will spot and change reddish in those places where Urine or any sharp Liquor happens to come. But as this secret is discovered in all Articles concerning Blacks in this Instruction, it will be vain to the Dyers to pretend to conceal it, to furnish themselves with a pretext to Dye Black without Woad and Madder Grounds, since that Colour will not be sufficient to hide their Contravention as will appear more clearly in the 10th part.

Observations on Part Seventh and Eighth.
THESE two Chapters treating of the same subject, viz., the allowance and prohibition of Dying Ingredients, with this difference only that one of them treats of the causes why they are allowed or forbidden, 'twill not be unproper to join the Observations together.

The Author speaks of Non-Dying Ingredients which are either added to the Dye or make the Stuffes supple and stronger or cleanse them (amongst the first is Allom, and the last Tartar) or they heighten the Dye as the several sorts of the Salts with or without alteration, as PotAshes, Salt-peter, Common Salt, Cristal or Mineral Salt, Sal Armoniac, Lime, Ashes; and without alteration, as Liquors, viz., Spirit of Wine, Urine, &c. Of the use of the first, see notes on Article 18. And concerning Urine the Author in Article 128 tells us that it brightens the Madder Dyes, but it hath sometimes a quite contrary effect, especially if it be stale, and the Volatil Salt a little more fermented for it penetrates into the dying Liquors and always renders the Colours thick and deeper, as may be observed in the pale and deeper Madder Colours. The mention'd flowers of Wheat and Pease as well as Starch and Bran serve to slacken and temper the hardness of the Waters in Article 121. The mentioned Brasil Wood as also Wild Saffron is much used in GERMANY, but the Colour of the latter is somewhat more durable than the first, which is no lasting Colour. As for Madder if we would consider our own interest we might produce enough of it in GERMANY to ballance the HOLLANDERS Ships who trade with us if we pleased. Iron filings render the stuff harsh and bum the Dye. As to the prohibition of Alder bark the ingredient is not so dangerous, but that if well prepared it may very well be allowed; but of that more in the notes on the next part.

CLIX.
THE Black Dye in valuable and midling Stuffes is most important, as well because this colour is liable to the most frauds, the discovery whereof is very difficult, as because 'tis a Dye which is used in the finest Stuffes which are worn by people of the best quality; 'tis also necessary to take very good care that the Dyers Dye the best Black that they possibly can without sensibly injuring the Stuffes or seriously enhancing the price of the Dye.

CLX.
High prized Stuffes ought all to be Maddered for four reasons.

CLXI.
First, because it renders the Dye the better, more finer and more serviceable.

CLXII.
Secondly, because dear Stuffes being made of the finest Wools, they being moister and more oily will be apt to soil and more easily catch dust, or the lint of Table Cloths, Napkins and old linnen, if they are not well cleansed with Allom, Tartar, and Madder before they are Dyed Black.

CLXIII.
Thirdly, if the Black Dyes of fine Stuffs are not Maddered, they require more Copperas; an ingredient much more corroding than Allom.

CLXIV.
And fourthly, because fine Black Stuffes which have been Madder'd, being dryer and better freed from their Oilyness, are more healthful in the wearing than if they had not.

CLXV.
No body can deny that fine Stuffes being Madder'd are better, more beautiful and more wholesom than if they had not; but we may very well doubt of the wear and lasting of the Stuffes if we don't know.

CLXVI.
That no Drugs are so sharp and Corrosive as Salts, and particularly Allom and Coperas, which by their extraordinary heat harden the Stuffs and render them less lasting, by drying up the Oleaginous humidity which renders them flexible and keeps the Hair of the Wool fast; but it doth not necessarily follow that the small quantity of Allom used in a Madder'd Black, corrected with a great deal of Tartar and suffered to boil but a very little while, can produce this ill effect ; but on the contrary the drying the superfluous Oily Moistness of the Wool and cleansing it with Tartar and Madder renders it more lasting, by hindering the dust from staying in it which eats the Thread of the Wool as much as the Mothe, and preventing the lint of Table Cloths, Napkins, and old Linnen from sticking to it, and always soiling it, which tho' it is no very great fault, yet a great many are ignorant both of cause and remedy of it.

CLXVII.
If Black Stuffs be said not to be lasting, 'tis as well those not Madder'd, as those which are; which may proceed from a fault in the Stuff, or in its preparation, or by the ignorance of the Dyer in not using Allom, Tartar, Madder, according to the prescribed form or tinging the Black in the proper manner, and with the necessary Drugs.

CLXVIII.
Tho' there are few Dyers who know the quality or degree of humidity or dryness of the Drug which they use, nor why one Drug is more proper for one Colour than another, yet all the great Dyers either know or ought to know that Allom not only disposeth the Stuff to receive the Dye, but gives it an agreeable vivacity, and that Tartar is used not only to correct the sharpness of the Allom, but to dispose the Stuff to receive the Dye. Where the lively luster which Madder adds to the Black Dye is not required, by using a very little Allom and a sufficient quantity of Tartar, and letting the Stuffs boil a little, the Sharpness of the Allom will be removed, as experience confirms.

CLXIX.
Woad and Madder, are not only used to beautify the Blacks, and render them more lasting in fine Stuffs, but to prevent the excessive use of Coperas, which is necessary if they were Dyed from White immediately Black; so that to avoid an imaginary inconvenience we generally fall into a real one, the sharpness of the Coperas, which must be used in greater quantities in fine Stuffs without they are Madder'd, being more to be feared than that of Allom, Tartar and Madder.

CLXX.
'Tis to no purpose that some alledge that the Red of Stuffs madder'd for Black, is more difficult to tinge Black, than the liveliness of Blew, and also requires more Coperas ; for 'tis well known that this sort of Maddering inclines but a very little or not at all to Red, and by using INDIAN Wood in the Black Dye, the Red is easily surmounted, nor need we boil the Stuffs long in Galls, nor make the Coperas bath very hot, because INDIAN Wood, which serves in this place instead of Galls, makes the Stuffs take the Black if the Bath be but moderately heated, which hinders the sharpness and softens the Stuffs in Black Dyes.

CLXXI.
Tho' fine Stuffs ought to be both Woaded and Madder'd, yet in fine unspun Wools the case is different because the Allom and Woad drying the Hair of the Wool, render it inflexible to the Spinners Fingers, and prevent its keeping fast in the Fulling; but we ought to content ourselves with Woading them alone, the Blew how deep so ever always cleansing and softning rather than hardning the hair of the Wool.

CLXXII.
As Stuffs to be Dyed Black made of fine Wool, ought to be Madder'd to dry and cleanse them, so Stuffs made of a midling course Wool, being of themselves dry enough, and often too dry, ought only to be well Woaded, the Woad preserving and augmenting the softness of the Stuffs, and rendering the Colour very good and lasting if properly used, and in sufficient quantity, according to the goodness and strength of the Stuffs. But the Blew either of the best Woad alone or mixt with the slighter Woad and Indigo, must be given according to the 8th, 9th, 10th and 11th Articles of this Instruction, otherwise the Dye will be bastardized, for which reason, 'tis above all of great importance to take care to have a perfect Black, whether it be Madder'd or Woaded only.

CLXXIII.
Before we can well fix the grounds of Woad alone, or of Woad and Madder, of all sorts of Stuffs to be Dyed Black, according to the fineness of the Wool and strength of the Stuff, we ought to be previously inform'd.

CLXXIV.
First, that strong Rashes and double Serges which are made of good Wool, being connected together as well by the texture of the Threads, as the conjunction of the hairs of the Wool which have not been broken by the card or Fullers Thistle, ought to have a stronger ground than Stuffs of the same Wool combed, because they last much longer.

CLXXV.
Secondly, That the Dye penetrating much easier the open, then the fast or Close Stuffs, the last sort ought to have a stronger ground; that thereby the quick penetration of the Dye in the others may here be compensated by the strength.

CLXXVI.
Thirdly, Lining Stuffs being commonly more loose and open, and less exposed to the Sun and Rain, ought to have less ground than those which are more exposed to wearing or the injuries of Weather, tho' made of the same Wool.

CLXXVII.
In the fourth place, That the Rashes of CHALONS, AMIENS, RHEIMS, CHARTRES and other slight Stuffs, nor being half so lasting as those of NISMES, MONTAUBAN, S. GAUDENS and other strong Rashes ; they ought to have a less ground proportionable to their duration, tho' they cost more and are often made of very fine Wool.

CLXXVIII.
That we may duly and advantageously Observe all that hath been said, we ought to be inform'd that all Cloths of an Ell and Ell and three quarters, or an Ell and an half, whether English, SPANISH or DUTCH, or of SAPTE, CARCASSONNE, ELBEUF, ROUEN, SEDAN, or other sorts of make, of the fineness and breadth which exceeds the Price of 12 Livers the Ell, should be Woaded like an ALDEGUO and Madder'd as the best sort.

CLXXIX.
The DRAPS DE BERRY or Cloaths of Berry, SIG0VIA, ROUEN, DIEPPE, FESCAN, CARCASSONE and SEDAN, all sorts of fine Ratines, Serges of SIGOVIA and LIMESTRE, double Serges, and other such like Stuffs of what breadth or make soever, from four Livers 10 Sous to 12 Livres the Ell, shou'd be Woaded to a Perfick Blew (BLEUPERS) and a little less Madder'd than the others above, and for those under 4 Livers 10 Sols they ought to be Woaded to a Perfick Blew, and not Madder'd at all.

CLXXX.
Druggets of fine Wools called half fulled Druggets, narrow Ratines, CORDELATES of AVIGNON and other Stuffs of the same Nature, of half Ell or a quarter of an Ell wide, exceeding the Price of three Livers the Ell, ought to be Woaded to a Perfick Blew and Madder'd in the same manner as the Serges and Ratines above mention'd; Having always respect to their Price and breadth.

CLXXXI.
Cloath Serges and Ratines of whatsoever breadth, make or finess, from 3 Livers to four Livres 10 Sous the Ell, ought to be Woaded to a Perfick Blew, and those of less Price to the BLEW DE Roy, Kings Blew, without being Madder'd.

CLXXXII.
LONDON, CHALONS and RHEIMS Serges, POLHILAIRE RASHES and the * Lords RASH of NISMES and USEZ, fine RASHES of ALBY, CASTRES and MONTAUBAN, strong Cross Lords RASHES of ST. GAUDENS, ROMAN Serges: Lords Serge, Serge de SOMERE a Narrow double Serge, FLANDERS BARRACANS, double Burats of St. GAUDENS, and other the like sorts of Stuffs of the same breadth of whatsoever make, not exceeding 2 Livres the Ell, ought to be Woaded as the Perfick Blew and not Madder'd.

* So called from Persons of Qualities wearing them.

CLXXXIII.
The midling sort of Satines of BEAUVAIS, English Frises; Bayes, Serges and Flannels; Serges of Mouij, MERRON, AUMALLE CREVE CEUR; RASHES of ST. Lo and ST. GAUDENS; LINGETTES of CADU and FALAISE, Camelot or Camblets of AMILY, ARRAS and L'ISLE; BAYES Of CASTRES and BURGUIERE, slight RATINES of SOMMERE, CADRI, DARICANE; CRAPES of CASTRES, and all other sorts of Narrow Stuffs, of what make soever, from 25 pence to 40 pence the Ell, ought to be Woaded as the Turkish Blew without being Madder'd.

CLXXXIV.
Frises of AMIENS and VALENTINE of an Ell, broad Serges of CHARTRES, NOGENT and of CHARTRES make, CORDELATES Of CRE, slight FRIPONS and CADIS of NISMES, Serge of AUMALLE of two thirds breadth; TAMIES OF AMIENS, DU LUDE, DE RHEIMS, slight Burats of St. GAUDENS and D'AUVERGNE RASHES not Crossed and CADIS of ST. GAUDENS and all other slight Stuffs, from 12 to 25 pence the Ell, ought at least to be Woaded to a Sky Colour.

CLXXXV.
The CADIS and FRISONS DUPUY DU GEVANDAN, slight CORDELATS of ST. GENIES, BURATTES of AUVERGNE, Serges of ST. FLOUR, and other slight Stuffs, not exceeding 12 pence the Ell, ought to be Woaded as the BLEW MEGNON which is but half the mixture of the Sky Colour; and the Reader ought to take Notice that all the mention'd prizes of the Stuffes are meant when they are yet White.

CLXXXVI.
All Wools for mixture ought to be Woaded with the same ground with the Stuffs, wherein they are to be used, without Maddering, that they may have a Dye suitable to their Value. Woolen CAPS ought to be Woaded to the same ground, with their Wool, and Worsted Stockens exceeding 3 Livres the Pair ought to be Dyed, according to their finess, being to be Woaded as the Kings Blew ; Those from 40 pence to 3 Livres as the TURKISH BLEW, and those of lower prizes as Sky Colour: But for the Wools for Farandines or other Stuffs where the Wool is Cover'd, 'twill be sufficient to Woad them as Sky Colours, this ground being enough to give these sorts of Manufactures a perfect Black.

CLXXXVII.
The great and lesser Dyers ought to be allowed to augment the ground in the Dying of Stuffs, whether that of Woad only or that of Woad and Madder, as the Merchants may (if they think fit to pay the Price for it) order a stronger ground, but it ought to be strictly forbidden to both Merchant and Dyers, to Diminish or cause to be Diminished, the Grounds order'd by these rules, because they ought at least to come up to that to deserve the Name of good Dyes.

CLXXXVIII.
And to the end that no Person may be excused from giving the due grounds to all sorts of Stuffs, several Patterns of four Ells each, shou'd be Dyed with every sort of Ground, half of which to be lodged in the Hall or Corporation of Merchants and Dyers in every Town, to serve as Master Pieces to have recourse to upon all occasions.

CLXXXIX.
'Twould be to no purpose to take care that a good ground be bestow'd on all Woollen Manufactures and Wools, if the same care be not taken that a good Black be Dyed upon that afterwards, by well Galling them with a sufficient quantity of Galls, and Sumack, and if Sumack be wanting with RODOUL and Fovic, and tinging them Black in the same bath with a sufficient quantity of INDIAN Wood and Coperas with a little Verdigrease; the INDIAN Wood being first boiled alone, suffering it to take leisurely, often lading and Ventilating it, by which means the Black will be render'd more Beautiful and soft, as well as more certain and lasting, and wear much better than if INDIAN Wood were not used in it. That Ingredient ascertaining and Meliorating the Dye, with the help of Galls and Coperas. Yellow Wood is also very useful in Blacks.

CXC.
'Tis not enough that care only be taken that a sufficient quantity of Galls, Coperas, INDIAN Wood and Sumach or RODOUL, and F