Glossary beginning with R

Dictionary of costume terms for Renaissance costume.

r
rainbowsearch for term
Synonyms: rainebowes, raynebowe
rashsearch for term

Twilled fabric made in both silk and wool, similar to saye. Appears in accounts frequently from the 1570s to 1640s. It was about 54 inches wide.

See also: burrel, tamine Synonyms: raysshe, Rasse, rashe, raishe, ryash
razed/raisedsearch for term

the variant spellings of this word can lead to confusion. In some cases, fabric is "raised" up in puffs on a ground fabric, or cut and raised to display a fabric beneath. In others it is "razed", cut with a very fine blade in a decorative fabric, sometimes in conjunction with pinking or stamping of the fabric. The meaning usually needs to be deduced from context. For example:

Petycoate of purple Satten reyzed with yellowe silke (raised)
crimsen Satten wth worcks reyzed wth blewe vellatt (raised)
white satten razed and pinkd allover (razed)
one doublet of white satten, embrodered and razed uppon like flyes (razed)
a paire of sleves of white satton cutt and raysed up upon white siluer Chamblet (raised)

Synonyms: reysed, raysd, raste, rased, raised, reized, raized, raysed, rayzed, reised, Rassinge, racynge, racing, razed, reyzed, reyzid
rebatosearch for term

a flat standing stiffened ruff, popular at the end of the 16th c.

Synonyms: rebartas, rabatines, rebarta, Rybbatou
remblandsearch for term

remnant

Synonyms: remblands
reticellasearch for term

needlework lace worked on linen of which threads had been drawn or cut away.

See also: cut-work, drawn-work, needlework lace
ribbonsearch for term
Synonyms: riband, rebands, riben, ribbons, ribine, reben, ribande, rubane, rebeing, ribbyn, rybond, ryban, rybonde, ribening, ribin, Ryben, rybande, Rebande, reband, ribans, ribon, rybband, rybon, rybbyns, ribband, ribbands
Richmondsearch for term
Synonyms: Richemounte
riding gownsearch for term
Synonyms: riding Gowne
rising panessearch for term

a decorative technique that gained particular popularity in the 1580s and 90s, of slashing fabric in rows of slashes (or laying it in finished panes) and setting the slashed fabric on a base fabric, stitched down between rows of slashes so that it raised up in puffs.

Synonyms: rizinge cutts, risinge paines, rysinge snypps, risinge cutts, rysinge panes, cut and raysed up, rysinge Cutts
rising puffssearch for term

puffs of fabric stitched down to a ground

Synonyms: rysinge puffes, risinge Puffs, rysinge puffs, rysing puffs, rizinge puffs, risinge puffes, rising puffes
Robesearch for term
Synonyms: Roabe
rollsearch for term

In the mid to later sixteenth century, rolls were sewn into the skirt pleats of french gowns, stiched into sleeve heads to help them keep their shape. In the 1580s and later, separate rolls unattached to garments were worn under skirts.

Synonyms: rowles, rolle, depe rolls, depe rolles, rolls, rolles, rowle
roundsearch for term
Synonyms: rounde, rownde
round aboutsearch for term

When describing the placement of trim, "round about" means around the hem.

Synonyms: rounde aboute
round gownsearch for term

Possibly a gown with a trainless skirt--round all the way around.

Synonyms: rounde Gownes, rounde Gowne, round gowne
round hosesearch for term
Synonyms: rounde hose
round kirtlesearch for term

This term possibly meant a kirtle with no train--a kirtle "round" all about the hem.

Synonyms: rounde kyrtles, round kyrtle, rounde kyrtle, rounde kiyrtell, rounde kirtles, rounde kirtle, round kyrtles, Rownd kyrtell, rownde kyrtell, rounde kyrtells, rounde kyrtell
Roundelssearch for term
Synonyms: Ronndells
rubbing brushsearch for term

Most of the royal wardrobe was cleaned by means other than application of water: brushing, beating, fumigating, sprinkling with oil absorbent powder, etc. Rubbing brushes were used for this purpose.

Synonyms: Rubbinge brushes, rubbing brushes
rubbing clothsearch for term

A cloth used for cleaning clothing. When the fabric is mentioned, it is usually plain wool cloth.

Synonyms: rubbinge clothes, rubbing clothes
rubysearch for term

red gemstone

Synonyms: rubie, ruby, rubye, rubies, rubyes, rubys
ruff bandsearch for term

a neck ruff attached to a band.

Synonyms: Ruffbandes, and bandes, bande, ruffe bands, ruffbands, ruffebands, ruffe bands, shyrte bondes, bandis, the bandes
ruffssearch for term

In sixteenth century wardrobe accounts, "ruffs" refer to the decorative gathering, pleating and ornamentation at sleeve heads more frequently than it does to neck ruffs or wrist ruffs (usually termed "bands" in period accounts).

See also: armescye Synonyms: ruffes, ruffe, rufte, roffes
Rugsearch for term

heavy fabric with a looped and/or tufted pile. Used for mantles and cloaks.

Synonyms: rugge, rugg
Russellssearch for term

A stout yet lightweight worsted fabric, first mentioned in 1545, and gaining popularity in the 17th century (in England). Probably of a similar weight to calimanco; it is mentioned side by side with calimanco in more than one 17th century source.

Russell: In the 19th century it was a stout worsted, woven with double warp and single filling in a five-end twill. It was ussed for women's boots, shoes, petticoats and men's vests.

"Worsted, called St. Omer, narrow half worsted, the piece, called Russells Worsted or Broad Worsted, the piece, 2 li." History of the Worsted Manufacture in England, 1650

"Russells also brought hither at the same period (1554) were in like manner of light weight and great price. The making of russells, it would appear, had been discontinued, at least they were "not entered in custome."

Synonyms: russeles, rossels, russells, russelles, rustell, rysall
russetsearch for term

Russet was both a colour name and a fabric in the 16th century, which led to some confusion. The fabric russet was a homespun fabric in natural grey or red-brown, worn by the peasantry. The colour russet was usually what we think of now as russet, but could sometimes refer to grey in the 16th century.

Synonyms: rosset, rossett, contre russett, Russat, russett, russatt, rusett