Glossary beginning with P

Dictionary of costume terms for Renaissance costume.

p
pipessearch for term

Long beads, what are in modern times termed "bugle" beads.

pillow beresearch for term

Cushion cover, pillow case

Synonyms: pillowbere, pillowbeares, pillowberes, pillowbiers, pillowbeeres, pillowbyers, pillow beers, pillowebeeres, pillowbers, pillowbeere, pillowberes, pilloberes, Cushing cloth
pansypansysearch for term

pansies were a popular motif in Elizabethan embroidery and textile design.

Synonyms: paunceis, pauncis, pauncies, pansies, paunses, pannses, panses
pineapplesearch for term
Synonyms: pyne-aple, pyne apples
pampillonsearch for term

An animal listed among those the furriers guild used for furring garments in the 16th century. The Dictionary of Fashion defines it as black budge fur originating in Pamplona, in Navarre.

"hablemend de bureau:" a coate of chaungeable colours for servauntes; slight rugge or pampilion". -Hollyband's Treasury of the French Tongue, 1580

Synonyms: pampelyon, pampillion, pamplin, pamplyn, pamipilion, pampilion
packthreadsearch for term

A string of fairly cheap quality, used to tie packages. Ben Franklin's kite was said to have a string of packthread. Packthread was used to stiffen stays in some mid-18th century accounts.

Synonyms: pak thread
pairsearch for term
Synonyms: payer, peire, paier, payher
pair of rollssearch for term

rolls, usually of fustian stuffed with cotton bombast, were set into sleeve heads. When rolls are listed as a pair rather than singly, sleeve head rolls are what is meant, rather than a farthingale-roll.

Synonyms: payre of rolls, payer of rolles, payer of Rolls, peire of Rolls, peire of Rolles, pair of rowls, paire of rolls, paire of rolles, payre of rolles, pair rolls
pantssearch for term
Synonyms: nether stockes, nether stocks, Gaskens, stocks, gaskons
parchment lacesearch for term

commonly believed to be reticella lace, also known as needle lace or punto in aria: worked on a parchment ground. Alternately this could be an early form of Cartisane Lace, which was composed of thin parchment strips wrapped with gold and silk and woven into gimp trim.

Synonyms: parchement Lace, partyrmet lace, parchmentt lace, parchment las, parchemente lace, pchment Lace, parchment lacce
Parissearch for term
Synonyms: pasment
partletsearch for term

A garment worn by women in the 16th century that covered the upper chest and shoulders. In the earlier 16th c., partlets were worn on top of the gown, and were made of wool or silk. They tended towards dark colors. In the later 16th c., partlets were made of linen and were frequently worn under the outer gown.

Synonyms: Parteletts, pertelet, pattletts, partelettes, partelett, ptelett, patletts, Parthlett, partlets, partlett, partelet
passamaine lacesearch for term

A rich lace frequently incorporating gold and silver covered threads, in a variety of widths.

Synonyms: passamaines of, passamaine of, passimaine lace, passamaine lase, Pasamayne, passemaine laces, passamaine laces, passamayne lace, passement, passamanie lace, pasment, passamayne lase, pasmentis
pasteboardsearch for term

Glue-stiffened paper board used to stiffen the stomachs of doublets, the fronts of gowns, and stomachers. "Pastes" were also used in french hoods.

Synonyms: past bourdes, past bourds, hood past, paste bourde, paste bordes, paste bourdes, past bordes, paste in the ruffes, pasbord, paste board, paste bords, paste borde, paste bourds, cardboard, basteborde
pattenssearch for term

wooden overshoes worn to keep the feet and shoes clean.

Synonyms: pattents
patternsearch for term
Synonyms: pattrons, patternes, paterns, pattron, patron, pattrones, patrons
peacocksearch for term
Synonyms: Pecoke
pearlsearch for term

Due to whimsicalities in spelling, several variations of the word pearl (purl, pyrle, etc) could refer to either the gemstone or to loops of gold bullion modernly known as "purls".

Synonyms: pearle, pearll, perle, perll, pirle, purl, purle, pyrle, pearles, pearls, perlas, perles, perllis, puriles, purles, purls, pyrles
pearlssearch for term
Synonyms: p(ear)le, Pearles, Pearles, pirle, perle, p(ear)ls, pearle
penistonesearch for term

A fine napped woolen fabric made in the Yorkshire town of the same name. It could also be made into frizadoes: "Frisadose of Pennystones wrought and frised". (Norwich statute, 1592.) Also, Florio's definition of gottomato is 'a kind of cotton , frezado, penistone, or buffin sarge '

Ordinary penistones were 12-13 yards long and 28 lbs, while sorting penistones were 13-14 yards and weighed 35 lb (Lex Mercatoria, 1629).

According to Lisa Hughes, The penistone sheep is native to Derbyshire and south Yorkshire. Now known as the whitefaced woodland, the fleece is long, but kind of chalky and not the finest.

Synonyms: pennystones, penistones, pennystone, pennestone
perfumesearch for term
Synonyms: perfumed, pfumed, perfumynge
peropussearch for term

A fine worsted fabric devised in Norwich at the turn of the 17th century; a kind of double chamlet. Very much like paragon.

A complaint of Norwich weavers in 1618 states that "the paragon, peropus and philiselles may be affirmed to be double chambletts; the difference being only, the one was double in the warp, and the other in the weft."

See also: filoselle Synonyms: bowpars, popus, bowpres, bowpars
Perpetuanasearch for term

A new drapery originated by the foreign weavers at Norwich. A woolen material, resembling serge, lighter in weight than broadcloth. About the same price as serge.

Synonyms: perpetuan
Petticoatsearch for term

A petticoat was:
-Usually a skirt with a sleeveless, front-lacing bodice; sometimes a separate skirt tied to a bodice with points, and sometimes a skirt with a sleeved, front-lacing bodice.
-Usually red, especially for the lower and merchant orders.
-Usually closed with lacings, though there are a few references to petticoats closing with hooks and eyes. Some petticoats had placards pinned or fastened across the lacings in front.
-Made of wool or silk fabric; no references to linen or fustian petticoats have been found.
-Frequently had bodices and skirts of different colors and fabrics.
were often lined or interlined with stiff fabric, like fustian or buckram, for support.
-Until the 1580s, were the primary garment (alongside the kirtle) used for supporting the bosom and achieving the period, flat-fronted silhouette.

In the earlier 16th century petticoat also referred to a garment worn by men.

See also: vasquine Synonyms: pettecoatte, petycot, pettecoatt, petticot, petticoatt, petecoatt, pettycote, petticoate, petticoats, petticotes, petecotes, petticote, pettycotte, Peticoates, Peticoate, peticotes, peticote, petycott, petticottes, peticott, pettycotes, petycoat, petycoats, petycoate, petycoates, Petycote, Petycotes, petyecoate, unterrock, petty-coate, peticoat, peticoats, peticoates, petikote, petyecoote, peticots, petycoote, vylecote, petecote, pettocote, Petticott, wylie cote
pickadilsearch for term

A decorative trim of cutwork that is scalloped, snipped, tabbed, or pointed. It was used to edge doublets, collars, and other garments of the late 16th and early 17th centuries

Synonyms: pickadell, picadell
piecesearch for term
Synonyms: pece
piecessearch for term
Synonyms: peces
piecingsearch for term
Synonyms: pecing, peceing
pillowsearch for term
Synonyms: pele, pelo, pillow, pillowe, pyllowe, pillows, pillowes, pyllowes
pinsearch for term
Synonyms: Pines, Pynnes, pyns, pins, pynes, Pinns, penes, pinnes
pincushionsearch for term
Synonyms: pin cods, Pynpillowe
pineapplesearch for term
Synonyms: pyneaples
pinkingsearch for term

decorative slits, usually small, made by a small punch tool. When larger, they were called slashes or vents.

Synonyms: pinkes, pinken, pinked, pynkinge, pynked, pincked, pynks, pin[ked], pinks, pincks, pynkyng, pinkte, pinkd
pinner-onsearch for term

a term for a sheer layer of fabric, similar to a gorget or kerchief, pinned on over the bosom and down the front of a gown.

Synonyms: pynners one
platesearch for term

In the context of sixteenth century dress, plate was a flat silver or gold wire included in laces that were applied to clothing as decoration

Synonyms: plate golde, silver plate, lase with plate, goldesmythes plate
plate lacesearch for term

Lace including flat silver or gold plate<

Synonyms: plate laces
pleatsearch for term

Fabric folded at one edge, with the folds sewn down. Skirts, sleeve heads and veils were pleated. Knife pleats, box pleats, rolled pleats and cartridge pleating are all varieties of pleats.

Synonyms: pleating, plaites, playtes, pleyts, pleytes, pleites, pleite, pleyte, pleits, pleyt, pleated, pleats, pleate
plunketsearch for term

Most frequently referred to a blue color, though it was also the name of a woolen fabric. As a fabric, it was a broad cloth 25.5 yards long (in 1590s).

"Item, payd for iii brode clothes, beinge plunkyttes, conteyninge in lengthe lxxvi yardes and a halfe."--Account books of Henry Tooley,1596
"Ploncket: colour blew." --Palsgrave
"Caesius: graye of colour of blunkette, Scyricum: blunket colour or light watchet. Venetus: lyght blewe or blunket." --Elyot
"Couleur pers.: skie colour, a blunket or light blew." --Cotsgrage

The fabric plunket, from which the word blanket originated, was woven as early as the reign of Edward III. It was distinguished by wide selvedges, and was also called vervise, tuskin or celestine in the time of Edward VI.

Synonyms: plunkyttes, blonkett, bluncket, plommetts
plushsearch for term

a wool-piled velvet weave.

Synonyms: plushes, plusshe, plushe
pocketsearch for term
Synonyms: poketts, pockets, pocketes, polkets, pockett, pocketts, pockettes, Poketts, pakettis, pokets, pokett
pointing ribbonsearch for term

Ribbon used for points, i.e., which had metal tags applied to the ends and was used to lace up gowns, fasten openings together, and attach garments together. It is unknown whether pointing ribbon was flat or round.

Synonyms: poyntinge Reben, poyntinge Rebande, poyntinge Reband, pointinge ribin, poynting Rebands, pointinge riben, pointinge ribbin
pointssearch for term

points, or pointing laces, were laces with metal tips used to fasten garments together. Could be leather, linen, or silk.

See also: aglet Synonyms: poynts, pointes, poincts, Poyntes, poynting, pointinge, pointynge, poyntinge, poynted
Polishsearch for term
Polish fashionsearch for term

A style of dress originating in (or inspired by) Polish fashions, in 16th century England. Janet Arnold theorizes that the style was marked by sets of frogged clasps down the front of the gown.

Synonyms: polony fation
Pomegranatesearch for term

A textile design and motif popular in the 16th century

Synonyms: pomegranetts, pomegranets, pomegranets, pomegranetts, pomegranates
pomell Lacesearch for term

Unknown type of lace frequently referenced in the 1562 Earl of Pembroke inventory.

Synonyms: Pomate Lace, pommel Laces, pommell lase, pommel lace, pome laices, pomell lacce, pomell lace, powmet laice
powdersearch for term

sweet powder (diatomaceous earth, most likely, combined with sweet-smelling oils) used for freshening and airing clothing and furs

powderingssearch for term
Synonyms: powderinges, powderid, powitherings, powthered, powderinge, Powtherings
powtsearch for term

obsolete term for paw, frequently used when referring to the fur of the paws of an animal: "furred with leopard's powtes."

Synonyms: pout, powts, powtes, pouts, poutes
pressing ironsearch for term

irons were used by tailors and others to press fabric. The image to the left depicts three 16th and 17th century flat irons discovered in archaeological digs in amsterdam (Opgravingen in Amsterdam)

Synonyms: pressinge iron, tailor's iron, pressing iron, ironing, pressing yron
printedsearch for term

In the 16th century, printing fabric was accomplished by pressing it with a hot shaped iron to achieve a faux damask effect.

Synonyms: prented, prentid, prenting
puffsearch for term
Synonyms: puffes, pufs, puffe
purlsearch for term

metal bullion twisted into a tight coil and applied to fabric as decoration. Due to the whimsical spelling used in the 16th century it is sometimes difficult to know if a reference refers to this type of purl, or to pearls.

Synonyms: purle, purles
purl lasesearch for term

lace made with purl bullion, wire wrapped around a silk core.

Synonyms: pirle lase, pyrlyd lace
purled lacesearch for term
Synonyms: pyrlyd lace
pursesearch for term
Synonyms: Pursis
pantoflessearch for term

a cork-heeled slipper shoe, sometimes open-toed and sometimes not, worn over soft-soled shoes or pumps.

See also: pumps Synonyms: pantables, pantafles, pantofells, pantoffles, pantobles
pumpssearch for term

A close-fitting, single soled low shoe or slipper. It was worn by both men and women and is mentioned as being worn with pantofles. Richard Percyvall defines the spanish servilla< as a "pump or pinsen to were in pantofles." Cotgrave (1611) defines escarpins as "pumpses; light, or single-soled shooes."

See also: pantofles Synonyms: pumpes