Comments on: Alcega: Farthingale of Silk

By: Costume History - Undergarments that the Tudors wore. -

Costume History - Undergarments that the Tudors wore. - — Sun, 20 May 2018 20:52:59 +0000

[…] A reproduction of a roll farthingale (bum roll)(Image found here) […]

By: Drea Leed

Drea Leed — Sat, 19 Oct 2013 03:13:46 +0000

In all of my readings of 16th century documents, I’ve only found one reference to a farthingale with a bumroll: a reference to “a farthingale and cushionet”, the cushinet probably being some sort of cushion or roll, worn beneath the farthingale, most likely.

Until the 1580s, the roll for gowns was actually a small roll sewn into the pleats of the gown itself, rather than worn underneath it. this is a much superior way of doing things–the roll, stitched to the pleats, helps to keep the pleats in place, and you don’t have to worry about it slipping around, back, forward, or down your hips. Looking at the silhouette of skirts of the 1560s and 70s, I believe these rolls would have been about 2 inches in diameter.

In addition, the pleats were stiffened by adding a layer of heavy wool or stiff canvas between the outer fabric and lining before pleating them. The combination of this stiffening, and a roll sewn into the pleats, produces exactly the look of the gowns of the time.

Hope this helps!

By: Natasha Birt

Natasha Birt — Sat, 19 Oct 2013 01:07:40 +0000

I love this site and its nice to see the patterns made ‘whole’. I had one question though, I was wondering if you could provide the research on the inclusion of the bumroll? My finding has been limited in this regard other than a vague reference of ‘wool padding on hips’ and would be interested in any research in this regard.